Stagea Suspension

[captinsane]

hahaha

nomate-no springs-springs have been sent down tasmania in advanceandi will install them down there... still in brisbane at the moment...

yeah - strange tyre dudereduced my camber... fool...

I will takephotoes andlet you know whe i install them... and igot confirmation that theirsize is thesame as GTR but installed upside down togetmore space in the rear ind... ifthat helops

damnspacebaris broke... sorry...

Hi Chris, (me first ) did you get your springs sorted yet?

Ref wheel geometry, these settings are from SK's thread for his road Wagon "front rear toe =zero, front camber = 1 deg neg, front caster as much as possible, left side 0.25 deg more than right for road camber issues, rear camber 0.5 deg negative.

Had mine done recently, numbers about the same as above, fr & rr toe + 0'01" , fr camber -1'10"left, -1'08"right, caster +4'2"left, +3'1" rear toe +0'01"lt & rt but just reading rear camber = awful. ( left - 1.44 deg, right +11.4 deg) typo? Dunno & dunno why I didn't spot it before but I doubt Wilkinson Suspension would make a mistake & the guy did say that he couldn't get correct camber setting at the time. Meh I just paid and drove off but next job is going to be fit those rear camber bushes wot been sitting in shed.

Cheers GW

[Sydneykid]

Does anyone know how many circlip grooves the Bilstein shocks come with if ordered directly from Bilstein??

and roughly how much its costs to get more circlip grooves put in?

The fronts come standard with 2 grooves, the rear with one. The going rate at machine shops is around $5 per additional groove, x 8 grooves x 4 shocks = $160.

The Group Buy Bilsteins already come with the grooves added ie, no additional charge.

Cheers

Gary

[260tech]

The fronts come standard with 2 grooves, the rear with one. The going rate at machine shops is around $5 per additional groove, x 8 grooves x 4 shocks = $160.

The Group Buy Bilsteins already come with the grooves added ie, no additional charge.

Cheers

Gary

Pounce.

Good to see you survived the holiday in USA Gary, I know it was a while ago now but have been wondering if the KCA332(?) Whiteline caster bushes & shock bump stops I sent back to JAMAC ever arrived at your end?

Regards & seasons greetings

GW

[Sydneykid]

Pounce.

Good to see you survived the holiday in USA Gary, I know it was a while ago now but have been wondering if the KCA332(?) Whiteline caster bushes & shock bump stops I sent back to JAMAC ever arrived at your end?

Regards & seasons greetings

GW

Yep they arrived OK, I guess you may not have received a credit, perhaps? If so PM me the details and I will chase it up.

Cheers

Gary

[260tech]

Yep they arrived OK, I guess you may not have received a credit, perhaps? If so PM me the details and I will chase it up.

Cheers

Gary

Hi Gary, I have not seen anything pop up my end regarding credit but that is not to say it has not been done. My record keeping is all outgoing, incoming is rare so I guess I was looking more for a headsup on where to look than anything. Email sent.

Cheers GW

Edited January 4, 2008 by 260tech

[andy65b]

Hi SK

Can you recomend any good workshops in Sydney (preferably around Ryde) that can help me with suspension on an NM35 ARX Stagea. Pretty sure the dampers are shot and ready for the trash.

[Sydneykid]

Hi SK

Can you recomend any good workshops in Sydney (preferably around Ryde) that can help me with suspension on an NM35 ARX Stagea. Pretty sure the dampers are shot and ready for the trash.

PM sent

Cheers

Gary

[-FUZZY-]

The fronts come standard with 2 grooves, the rear with one. The going rate at machine shops is around $5 per additional groove, x 8 grooves x 4 shocks = $160.

The Group Buy Bilsteins already come with the grooves added ie, no additional charge.

Cheers

Gary

So how much lower do the extra grooves get you?? Or what performance increase is there (as in ride, l'm not concerned bout race track)?

I've got a kit on which already sits reasonably low on just stock shocks with apexi springs (30mm lower) .... so not sure if paying extra to get the grooves will be worth it.

[chook]

Just installed my new Swaybars into my S2, CUSCO R33 GTR front and rear. Front was straight swap, rear was a big job. Had to make and weld new mounting brackets as the stagea ones are too wide, then had to heat and bend the arms of the bar out 25mm on each side to match the link rods (new nolathane universal links) Handles superbly now, very pleased.

Edited January 3, 2008 by chook

[unique1]

Just installed my new Swaybars into my S2, CUSCO R33 GTR front and rear. Front was straight swap, rear was a big job. Had to make and weld new mounting brackets as the stagea ones are too wide, then had to heat and bend the arms of the bar out 25mm on each side to match the link rods (new nolathane universal links) Handles superbly now, very pleased.

i tried a gtr rear swaybar 2.5-3 years ago and posted in this thread from memory that they do not fit

[chook]

i tried a gtr rear swaybar 2.5-3 years ago and posted in this thread from memory that they do not fit

Yeah, read all that, knew it would involve some fabrication, enjoyed the challenge, had to be done if I wanted to upgrade the rear bar properly, also not that hard when you have access to a workshop as i did. Fits like factory now and has reduced body roll and understeer dramatically.

[260tech]

hahaha

nomate-no springs-springs have been sent down tasmania in advanceandi will install them down there... still in brisbane at the moment...

yeah - strange tyre dudereduced my camber... fool...

I will takephotoes andlet you know whe i install them... and igot confirmation that theirsize is thesame as GTR but installed upside down togetmore space in the rear ind... ifthat helops

damnspacebaris broke... sorry...

Hi Chris, you still down there in Tassie fish'n an stuff maybe?

[DaveB]

Yeah - it is still on.

Cause sydney kid went on holidays i was dealing mostly with matthew instead of SK

but it still went fairly seamlessly - except for the wait for springs.

I have had to wait about 6 weeks start to finish to get them here (they get mailed from SK to my address today apparently). The biggest wait was for the springs which had to be cold wound in Japan - and because whiteline obviously don't ahve huge demand for stagea springs - you have to wait for around a month until they do the next run (having to reset up the jog or whatever and all that for it... it's an understandable delay)

ORder ASAP - and then you just sit on your hands and wait - Matthew (from superior suspension) has been very persistent with replying to my weekly inquiries regarding where everything was at which was very accomodating of him.

Go through SydneyKid as per usual (use the PM function to initiate the deal) - use the system that he set up - don't go straight to Superior suspension. He'll take care of you from there... it will just take time.

RESPECTA!!!!!!!

I know it's late but thanks for that I will probably do this soon for my new series 2... just want to drive it for a bit first to get a feel for the standard suspension and to see what I need.

[Xmetal]

Took some pictures today of my suspension set up, this is for those who are wishing to go down the Tein road.

The struts have the part numbers on the placards so I figured i'd throw these up as well.

My Struts are Tein GT Wagon Driving Master Low Down Spec, Fitted to my Series 1 RS Four V.

Front strut:

Rear strut:

WGNC34-R = rear

WGNC34-F = front

My car also has adjustable pillow-ball tension rods - from a BNR32 Skyline.

Hopefully this helps a few people later down the track with suspension questions.

[Terminal]

They're the same shocks I have, they work well IMO

[chuckie]

G`day all iam looking at going through my suspenion & had a look at Brad`s on sunday,It`s rock soild so i think that i would struggle with some think that hard ,so i would like to hear who has what set up & how they rate it ,I have a serious back problem so don`t want any think to hard,so if i can get some feed back on what`s what& how you rate your set up,thank you talk soon,cheer`s chuckie.PS i have put some 32gts seat`s in the stagea & find these so much better that the standard one`s feel as if you sit in the car now so much better.

[captinsane]

got basck a while ago - still ahvn't doent eh springs cause of uni, work and all types of crazy - and still procrastinating getting back my rear swaybar from tassy

and I need to finish paying cyrus for the rims...

no rush for me - i inly drive it once per week at the moment cause i am just so freakin busy

[ssshonky]

Ok - I will firstly admit that I am too lazy to read the previous 22 pages ( but probably will having said that ) to work out the best combo for swaybars.

Now firstly - I have a 24 mm rear- set to max hardness. and I recently got what I THOUGHT would be a 24mm front.. but when I fitted it I noticed it was a 22mm solid of course, so due to the fact they came from over east I fitted it just to see what it felt like.

My conclusion - I think its too soft / not fat enough.

the cars handling did feel better.. but still feels like a bit too much body roll on severe cornering.

bear in mind I am still running on " grandpa spec " 50 or 55 series tyres, so thats probably not helping.

I guess what I came in here to ask is - if I go a harder front will it cause more undertsteer but less bodyroll? I guess I have learned that bigger is not always better.. so yeh.. what should I do ? play around with the existing 22 front and 24 rear to get handling better? or get a 24mm front?

oh and I dont know if it has any bearing but I also fitted the rear subframe bushes on the weekend.

[ssshonky]

ok just got off the phone to the dude who made the swaybars

apparently 22mm is right for the front of the stagea - if you go 24mm apparently they are too stiff and cause understeer ( NOT what we want )

also apparently if you put new shockies in there you experience the swaybars much more when you have new shocks.

I Just found it odd as I know the SK group buy had 24mm fronts? and I know others around here are running 24mm swaybars..

[wolverine]

SK, a question about standard camber adjustment on the rear.

you wrote:

"Having the hole on the bottom means that you get more change to negative camber as the rear end squats (under acceleration). Having the hole to the top means less change to negative camber as the rear end squats."

where is the best place to leave the hole?

i guess to the top if you want better traction off the line.

under cornering loads is there some advantage in leaving the hole on the bottom as you get more dynamic negative camber as the suspension loads up the outside wheel.

second question while i am thinking of it. one of your posts says the whiteline rear camber kit is good for 0.75 degrees but the group buy page says 0.5 deg. i guess it is the latter.