Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Suspension


Sydneykid

Recommended Posts

so wat do we have for M35's???

You can get a Bilstein kit for the ARX that drops the car about 35mm from standard ride height. This does not cause any problem for the suspension settings and the camber is still within normal operating range. I am not sure if any of the other suspension brands offer a kit for the ARX. Make sure any kit you get is for the ARX as the RX & RS sit 40mm lower on standard springs. To fit a kit for one of these other models would end up with the car about 70mm lower and I am quite sure you would have problems with wheel clearance on the front guards.

I also fitted adjustable swaybars front and rear. The standard ones are hollow and the new set are solid. rear went from 18mm hollow to 24mm solid. Fron went from 29mm hollow to 30mm solid.

This made a big difference to the balance and in particular the turn in of the car.

Good luck with your shopping.

Cheers

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just an update on rwd spec options. Have had lots of help from a few others who have rwd's. But I've found a shop in brizzy "southside supspension" who will order me in some bilstiens to fit the front for $350 a pop. Which seems like the cheapest option for quality supsension, so I think I'm gonna go with that.

:down:

Get a quote and shop around mate, list price for fronts is $296 incl.gst when i checked earlier this week. That's for a RS4 but all prices would be similar. They should be able to do better than that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get a quote and shop around mate, list price for fronts is $296 incl.gst when i checked earlier this week. That's for a RS4 but all prices would be similar. They should be able to do better than that.

Yeah but rs4 fronts are a shelf item, no one here stocks rwd spec front suspension. I've found a few shops in NZ that stock them, but I was quoted $320 each and then I would have to ship em over.

I'll keep lookin, but this is the cheapest I've found so far.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can get a Bilstein kit for the ARX that drops the car about 35mm from standard ride height. This does not cause any problem for the suspension settings and the camber is still within normal operating range. I am not sure if any of the other suspension brands offer a kit for the ARX. Make sure any kit you get is for the ARX as the RX & RS sit 40mm lower on standard springs. To fit a kit for one of these other models would end up with the car about 70mm lower and I am quite sure you would have problems with wheel clearance on the front guards.

I also fitted adjustable swaybars front and rear. The standard ones are hollow and the new set are solid. rear went from 18mm hollow to 24mm solid. Fron went from 29mm hollow to 30mm solid.

This made a big difference to the balance and in particular the turn in of the car.

Good luck with your shopping.

Cheers

Andy

Andy, roughly what did you pay (if you dont mind me asking) for your Bilsteins and springs and where from?

Regards, Dale

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi SK can you give me some advice please. I have just bought a Whiteline rear 22mm solid antiroll bar for my series1 rs4. I see from you picture that the link arms are forced out at an angle so that answers one question. The other is that my D clamps holes in the subframe are too far apart for the bar, causing them to be on the bend of the bar. How did you fit them? I am finding that the bushes are being forced open by the bend of the bar and the D clamp holes won't line up. It is as though the bar is too short and needs to be about 3cm longer. It is the correct bar according to the code written on it.

Cheers,

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

MIA? In the army is he? Well, can anyone help with the fitting of the D clamps? I see other people have had difficulty fitting them. It is a bit like trying to squeeze on a pair of size 8 shoes when you are a size 10!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi SK can you give me some advice please. I have just bought a Whiteline rear 22mm solid antiroll bar for my series1 rs4. I see from you picture that the link arms are forced out at an angle so that answers one question. The other is that my D clamps holes in the subframe are too far apart for the bar, causing them to be on the bend of the bar. How did you fit them? I am finding that the bushes are being forced open by the bend of the bar and the D clamp holes won't line up. It is as though the bar is too short and needs to be about 3cm longer. It is the correct bar according to the code written on it.

Cheers,

Dave

The new bar should be the same dimensions as the old bar except for diameter so if it is 30mm too short i would be returning it and asking for a new one. I believe the process by which they are made is not fully automated and there is room for operator error. Take some measurements and ring your supplier asking for a replacement. Mine fitted OK.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey all,just purchased rear nismo coilovers(damper adjustable) from a r33 gtst.just went to install them,and the 2 holes for the bolts to go thro at the strut mounts are far too narrow,do i need to drill some new holes?thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey all,just purchased rear nismo coilovers(damper adjustable) from a r33 gtst.just went to install them,and the 2 holes for the bolts to go thro at the strut mounts are far too narrow,do i need to drill some new holes?thanks!
Would have thought GTST suspension not suitable for a wagon. Do the springs even fit inside the turret?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can someone advise on what the BNF27 non-adjustable front swaybar is set too? As oppposed to the adjustable? Soft, medium or hard?

Thanks

The hole is pretty much on the end so i guess you could call that soft. If you haven't bought one yet you have to make a point of specifying 24mm otherwise you will probably be sent a 22mm one the same as you have already. I found it made little difference (as compared to the much heavier rear one which helped a lot). If you are going to buy a front one I would recommend you get a 24mm adjustable and set it to hard to start with. If you start getting understeer you can put it back to medium. Or if you haven't got one yet you could give it a miss and use the money for something else!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks kiwi.

I have been assured that it is the right one, so managed to squeeze it on. The D clamps did up ok in the end although they are right on the corner. The droplinks are splayed out at an angle which I don't think is very good as the bushes where it goes through the lower suspension arm are not square so have to be done up tight to take out the play. The bush which attaches the linkarm to the roll bar is also under more strain than I think is good too. It works ok and has stiffened up the rear but how long it will last before the bushes are stuffed and I have to put the original one back on I have no idea. The picture on about page 3 of this thread of SK's bar shows the droplinks at about the same angle as mine are

Edited by airbox
Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks kiwi.

I have been assured that it is the right one, so managed to squeeze it on. The D clamps did up ok in the end although they are right on the corner. The droplinks are splayed out at an angle which I don't think is very good as the bushes where it goes through the lower suspension arm are not square so have to be done up tight to take out the play. The bush which attaches the linkarm to the roll bar is also under more strain than I think is good too. It works ok and has stiffened up the rear but how long it will last before the bushes are stuffed and I have to put the original one back on I have no idea. The picture on about page 3 of this thread of SK's bar shows the droplinks at about the same angle as mine are

You've been sent a S13/R32 type rear sway bar not S14/R33 type!

S14/R33/R34 are wider Sway bar on rear! Different rear subframe/shocks to S13/R32.

Also springs rates and unsprung lengths for coilovers? Secured a set of DMS shocks to suit BNCR33 GTR!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anybody know the part number for bilstein shocks that go into the front of a S2 stagea RWD. And which model nissan match these shocks..Thanks for any help

I believe Rwd S2 are a strut type front end similar to S14.

Try to match up to that or S13/A31.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the mounting bolts are located different on s14,s15 strunts which make the car 2 inches lower.....Does anyone know what the bilstein part no. is for a S2 RWD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the mounting bolts are located different on s14,s15 strunts which make the car 2 inches lower.....Does anyone know what the bilstein part no. is for a S2 RWD

I've got a spare set of S14 one's here, if your keen to throw some measurements around?

Total length of strut, compressed length, top knuckle bolt to spring base(welded to strut) and knuckle bolt size(M12-14mm).

Coil over spring lengths???

Edited by RED513
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got a spare set of S14 one's here, if your keen to throw some measurements around?

Total length of strut, compressed length, top knuckle bolt to spring base(welded to strut) and knuckle bolt size(M12-14mm).

Coil over spring lengths???

If they where the same the shock would have to be valved, looking for what the part number is for the bilstein replacement for a rwd stagea.....thanks though dude

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had a chance yesterday to put the Stagea up on the hoist for half an hour and have a look around. I will post up some pictures on Monday, I left the camera in the workshop. Some things I noticed;

The front shocks look to be the same as R33 GTR, as is the rest of the front suspension

The rear shocks look to be the same as R33 GTST (eye at the bottom)

No HICAS, yahooooo

The front stabiliser bar is 22 mm hollow, like an R33 GTR.

I am fitting a 24 mm Whiteline adjustable bar (Part #BNF27XZ)

The rear bar is 19 mm and solid, like an R33 GTS

I am fitting a 22 mm Whiteline adjustable bar (Part #BNR11XZ)

The front caster bushes are the same as R33 GTR, it definitely needs mores caster (it was getting the front end wanders at 170 kph)

I am fitting some Whiteline adjustable polyurethane bushes and adding about 2 degrees positive caster (part # KCA332).

Ours sits a little rear down (maybe carried stuff in the back a lot)

Has around 2 degrees negative camber, which is more than the standard adjusters can remove

So I am fitting some adjustable Whiteline bushes in the rear upper arms (Part #KCA347).

The front looks OK for camber, should have a little negative when I lower it.

I didn't remove the shocks to check the spring rates, I will do that when I remove them to swap to the Bilsteins. The front springs look to be a similar rate to R33GTR, the rears are different though. I will machine a couple of extra circlip grooves into the Bilsteins so I can lower it just enough.

Hope that is of some help :type:

Just to go back in time, did anything ever come of the swaybars for the NM35. was reading some old posts and thought I would like a set.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Go to SP mufflers and get the muffler of size you want and make a nice mid muffler. It's about that simple! I have 2x 3.5 Magnaflow straight through Mufflers and while it's pretty loud with the Varex open, it's quiet enough with the Varex closed. You can also buy off the shelf Magnaflow straight through mufflers as well. You also have a turbo to quiet the car down too. Don't overthink it. Buy my extra Magnaflow muffler sitting on a shelf doing nothing (buy it new, ignore this part)
    • Centre-offset muffler under the floor, same as stock. Just....3.5". The change from straight pipe there to centre-offset will mean that you need to remake some of the pipe (add a bend or two).
    • Hey guys. So my R34 GTT has a custom 3.5” exhaust (done by previous owner) with a high flowing cat, and then just a Varex cannon muffler on the back. The car does drone alot and is really loud even on highway driving just cruising, as you can imagine due to the Varex muffler basically being a straight through with the valve open. As much as i love a loud RB, it can be a bit much with no other muffling in line and just driving casually. I wanted to lower the volume output on the exhaust a bit, as well as remove the drone (probably a way to do both at once), and was going to do it all myself as I am a fabricator and have done exhaust work in the past, so the fab work isnt my issue, im just not sure on the right product or type of product to use to get the job done, and i doubt an exhaust shop would be wanting to help me as they wont be making any money from helping me, unless they supplied the product? Anyway any help or guidance in best way to approach this would be awesome   Thanks in advance
    • Meh, whilst the Honda is a "really" good car and has potential if you want to drop coin on, it was uninspiring for me to look at, but, it did serve its purpose and is now in the boys hands, his happy, his girl is happy, as she wasn't to keen on the noisy old Patrol, and most importantly, the Minister for War and Finances is extremely happy that her "little baby boy" (6'2 nugget who is currently training to be a copper, which will make 3 coppers in the immediate "circle of trust") has a well sorted reliable car that doesn't guzzle diesel Me, I'm more than happy with the NC MX5 that I replaced it with, it's a fun little car that I like looking at, like driving, and yes..... I do like the fact that the maintenance and modifications that I have done/will do are plentiful and relatively cheap, well........ while staying naturally aspirated slow that is, and that's all I really need for a fun little daily, I can rev the 5hit out of it rowing through the gears and never really break the speed limit  In saying that wicked word, "modifications", I've already ordered something for some noise and an additional "3 ish" horse powers, or whatever it gives, in the form of a header, and, a new set of "cheapo" BC coilovers that are already sitting in the shed waiting to get put in, I had the same BC's in my old NB and found they were fine for the street, hwy, and the occasional track days I did in it, they have 6kg front and 4kg rear springs which is about 10% stiffer than the stock springs which I found worked well for their price  I've also already been in touch with MX5 Mania in Dural, so once the header is on it will get a ECUTek RaceROM tune there (I cannot rev match for 5hit, and I loved the RaceROM rev match and FFS in my old 86 "RIP") In other, maintenance news, I put some new sparkler plugs in it, and have a new set of DBA Street series pads to put in over the next day or so, I'm running the DBA street series in the SS and Honda and really like them, they work great and are not dusty at all I've also booked in a few days leave over this weekend to give me 4 days weekend do some paint correction and give the leather seats some conditioning and interior some Bissell and steam cleaning OCD lovin', the carpet and interior looks clean, but from my experience with the Bissell IRT carpet, and the steam cleaner IRT trim, looks can be deceiving I've also found that finding a detachable hard top is proving problematic, the main reason why I didn't like the NC initially was the power retractable hard top that I seen them with gave the roof line a weird look, the detachable roof though looks good, and is a same shape as a NA/NB hard top, similar, but unfortunately not the same as it has different fixture point on the front, so fitting a easy to get NA/NB detachable hard top is no bueno New Old cars are fun, cleaning, hunting and playing around brings much joy How are your beasties going? Do you still have the Skyline with the LS???, or Barra??? that you were playing with
×
×
  • Create New...