Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No HICAS, yahooooo ? Hi-cas was the nuts on my 32 ! WOULD LOVE IT ON MY sTAGEA c34 , even faster cornering , if you have the C34 Jap Stag then the front wheel track is 1"narrower than the rear , my understeer even on 12" rims was horrible , 2 inch apacers to the front cured it !!

correct me if im wrong but its only the auto rs4 that has the wider rear track. the manual version or the rs4-s has same track front and rear.

  • 4 weeks later...

BANG!

Good to know V35 and an ARX HAS the same Shock absorber set up. only difference is the spring. slammed it on its arse and its not rubbing or anything!

Edited by AaronNM35

BANG!

Good to know V35 and an ARX HAS the same Shock absorber set up. only difference is the spring. slammed it on its arse and its not rubbing or anything!

All that hard work I put in and you haven't even posted pics?

  • 2 weeks later...

i can measure up the ones i took off mine

but i think they are the same (place i got them from had the same p/n for stagea and r34)

Cool, thanks.

It looks like they're the same for s14,s15,r33,r34 . So must be the same for c34 you'd think. Just doesn't say so on any of the websites.

Cheers-

Cool, thanks.

It looks like they're the same for s14,s15,r33,r34 . So must be the same for c34 you'd think. Just doesn't say so on any of the websites.

Cheers-

2 4wd part numbers:

48520-15u25

or 48520 23u25

both 4wd

Check with FAST to see which is your car

i have been trying to find out for myself but its f**king confusing and before if waste alot of money can anyone tell me if these will fit on my 99' RS Auto stagea 2wd?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150544390552&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

thanks heaps for your help

  • 2 weeks later...

Depends what kit you are talking about. Shocks and springs, no.

i am looking at the hks hiper damper kits. The seller has told me that the R32 one won't fit, but that the R34 one will. They are second hand on eBay but they look in pretty good nick, say they have no leaks and the seller has a good rep.

Is the seller right about the R34 ones being suitable for my stag?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...