Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Started doing the headlights today as I was taking off my indicators and front bumper to do the widebody kit measurements and also the custom air intakes in the indicators.

Will post up pics soon.

Idea is to make up custom headlights. I have 2 pairs of headlights, one are the 89 model poverty lights that I bought on here, the other are the late model ones that came with my car (got the GTR ones coz my car was a V Selection II) should be very similar to the Series 2 R32 headlights anyways.

Things to do for:

89 Model headlights...

The headlight was shipped in dodgy packaging so the glass on the RHS one was smashed to bits (cut my hand on it when I opened the packaging). Anyways, after cleaning off all the glass shards on it, I took off all the rubber grommets and clips, took out the bulbs and plugs.

Then i unclipped the 4 metal clips holding the glass onto the headlight.

It was 32 degrees today in the sun, so I put the headlight in the sun to heat up naturally. I did this because I didn't want the glass from cold to hot and shatter (well it was already shattered, but it was practice for the non shattered ones).

I got an oil pan, filled it with boiling water and then dipped the glass side in and left it for 10 mins to heat up. THen using a screw driver I gently pryed the glass of the headlight. It was pretty easy to do since the glass was broken into chunks.

After this i found there was shattered glass in the glue, so while it was hot I quickly cleaned all that out too.

Then I took out the internals, and seperated everything.

Next thing to do:

Undid the headlight on my car and put the shell into it, checked where there was space to do more in, not really much space to do anything because of the aircon hoses etc.

Cut out the back of the headlight. THis should allow me more freedon to do extra shit in it.

Make up cardboard contour cards of the general shape I wanna get, put the replacement bulbs in and get a feel for the reflectors etc.

Block off all the bits I don't want affected, lay clingwrap on the surface then fill the headlight with space invader. Once the space invader has foamed out, carve the general shape I want out of it. Then pull the whole thing out using the cling wrap.

Using the solid block of dried space invader, create a cast by laying fibreglass on it. Once the cast is set, then use the cast to create a gelcoat negative which I'll then paint and put back into the headlight. Then make up the reflectors (either thin aluminium sheets, or chrome paint). Once all that's done, fabricate a cover using fibreglass and heat resistant perspex or glass (depending on what I can source). Then repeat steps for the other headlight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53353-r32-headlights-customising/
Share on other sites

i dont understand what you are trying to achieve....are you just putting different type lights behind the stock 32 glass, or what....if you are tryin to do a twin headlight conversion, you can buy them.

Hi - Maybe you can help me. I'm looking for twin headlight projector lights like the ones on the "Flybye" in the 2004 Autosalon car of the year mag. I called Autostyle who tell me they make them and will not retail them.

Any suggestions

With my current headlight (the Series 2 GTR ones)...

I took out the left one (and replaced it with the unbroken 89 left headlight... so now I'm driving around with a Series 2 RHD light and a series 1 LHD ligh, looks very odd but shmeh)

Using the same process I took out all the bulbs n clips n screws n grommets n vent hoses. Then left it in the sun to heat up. Then put it in a hot water bath to heat up further. After 10 mins used a thin screwdriver to make a small wedge into the headlight and pull out a corner. after this I used a knife to cut back the black goo a lil, and the back of a teaspoon to wedge it out some more, repeat that again and again, till the whole glass was out of the plastic casing. The trick is not to get too excited when you get a lil bit of movement as the glass can very easily crack.

Here's the disassembled headlight...

headlight_01.jpg

This one has a projector lense in it, so I don't intend to customise it to extremes. It has a chrome silver shroud that I'm gonna paint matt black. And then put a Xenon HID conversion kit in. Put it back in the car and test em out. With R32s projectors and Xenon HIDs I read in jap mags that the xenon bulbs tend to form shadows in the beam that they project... like so...

headlight_04.jpg

See how the bulbs form shadows...

Some of them have managed to modify the shadow so that it looks like so...

headlight_02.jpg

Here's what the HID light looks like on the projector style headlight...

headlight_03.jpg

Hopefully I can figure out a way of getting rid of the shadow cast by the bulb (due to internal light reflection). Painting the shroud in black "should" fix it, but we'll see how it goes.

Um, Autostyle are wanks :P if they don't want to sell to the public

1803.jpg

If you're talking about the headlight kit in this thing, I've had one, and its really dodgy, for one its exposed to the elements, and secondly the backing on it is absolutely POS. I got mine from japan from the manufacturers after a lot of begging and pleading. I've posted up pics of it before on the forums. Add to this the fact that if you get really close to it it looks butt ugly due to the metal bracket showing thru and having a very ugly looking contourless 90 degree bend in it. If you're still keen on em, then I've got the moulds for it and it shouldn't be that hard to get someone to make up a batch of em.

Basically I'm trying to get an H4 dual beam (highbeam/lowbeam) Xenon HID, H1 Xenon HID projector, and indicator setup with clear glass front setup on the 89 headlights and a standard Xenon HID only setup on the Series 2 headlights. Both with no bulb shadows and clear front glass. With the Series 2 headlights I might take t to a glass blower, and get them to place the glass in high heat sand and then put it in the kiln to heat it up and get rid of the diffractors. Failing that I'll just use perspex or clear glass that I fabricate using the 89 headlights.

Time for a bit of Mythbusting...

"Autostyle headlights" are NOT what they should be known as... they are in fact Infinty Headlights...

Here is their website: http://www.info-nagano.co.jp/infinity

One of the guys at autostyle just happened to import his car with these on, and suddenly that's what they're called... pfft.

index_007-Opt.gif

prt_mr4t-R32-hdl.JPG

they also do them for S14's prt_mr4t-S14-hdl.JPG

Here's the pair of INFINTY headlights that I bought:

aftermarket_headlamp1.jpg

aftermarket_headlamp2.jpg

its not the hardest to clone nor the most complex headlight in the world... if you're a fan of getting your bulbs a bit too close to getting wet in the rain... go nuts.

Anyways, back on topic, I'll post pics of the headlight customising tomorrow sometime.

Funky

Firstly, sounds a good little project. Let me know if you are intersted in trying them in carbon at all (if you dont have access to carbon yourself already that is).

Secondly, I have a early projector on the drivers side & a late projecter on the passenger side. Wanna swap so we have matching sets of lights?

Ben

Um I have 2 pairs of lights, so I have complete sets :D sorry dude, but I can get you a headlight if you want from a wrecker.

Carbon sounds interesting... I was thinking about it... I can do very very bad CFing using a vaccumn pump and a thick plastic bag :D do you know someone that can use my moulds to make some CF items? I've never made a mould for CF, is there any special requiremens or is it the same as gelcoat moulds?

buggar about the light... :D

The main probs with moulding in carbon is getting the woven mat to stick in small areas and tight complex curves. Obviously, with a clear top coat, any parts where the weave pulls or gets a little distant from the mould show up on the surface.

When you've got the moulds set up & ready, take a few good shots of them and I'll run the pics past the CRP mob I know and see what they say.

PM me if you want my email

Ben

.

Hey that sounds like a great project funky. I have no idea why you're doin what you are but I've been thinking of pulling apart the ceffy headlights to give them an angel eye (yes rice I know but original also and with the dual projector lights i don't think it will look too bad!!).

The other idea was to drill a shaft between the two projectors and mount a small orange light there for an indicator (my bar doesnt have any).

Anyways so this gives me a way to open the headlight enclosure without snapping it because I wasn't sure how to take them apart so thanks for that.

Just out of interest if you drop them in hot water after warming them up gently are they watertight at the front? To be it seems obviously yes they are but just to confirm.

How much the HID cost you? Let me know if you figure out the HID retrofit cos the ceffy and r32 projectors look identical.

Thanks.

someonestolecc, the ceffy's headlights are next on my list of things to do, rip em apart, take out the pooncy yellow fogs, paint the backing strip matt black, then do angel eyes on the dual projectors. I'll then rewire the fog lights to an H4 halogen, to use as high beam (and blind the f**k out of everyone in the process).

I'll be doing dual xenon's on them too (providing my old man forks over enough for it) otherwise I'll just go with hi temp halogens.

And yes they are GTR headlights I'm chopping, they came standard with my car.

I'm using a water resistant clear sealant (Selley All Clear) to reseal it.

Don't drop em straight in hotwater as the glass might crack due to the extreme change in temp. And yeah they are watertight. so you put it in the bath and you pour some hot water inside the headlight case.

Nice funky.

I like my yellow fogs I think I'll keep them - but definately the ceff DOES need HID the headlights are shocking. That's an interesting idea .. double low beams and the foggies turn into the high beam.

Doesn't that mean you need 4 ballasts and 4 HID bulbs? Sounds like over a $1000 for the conversion there :

Are there any where in Japan that do out-of-the-box HID conversions for ceffies? Where are you sourcing your HID from? Last I saw phillips ballasts + globes were like min. $600.

I think all R32 & R33 skyline headlights (except for the Xenon set) are pretty crap... ordinary throw and not bright enough :P

Might have to invest in some HIDs as they fall in price

PS and those round headlights are damn butt ugly!! Can't they even get the fibreglass surround straight at the bottom, side and top edges?!? :fart:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...