Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Denhams (INASNT) car is running a respectable 324Kw on stock internals

that wasnt on pump fuel remember.

Gotta be disticnt between pump and non-pump dyno runs.

anyhow. I'm making 270rwkw on 16psi running through a GT30 600HP with 6 blade GT series wheel. PULP

will make close to 300rwkw (or more) with more boost, just need a bigger fuel pump.

so far ive got:

PowerFC

GT30

740cc injectors

prepped GTR rods, arias forgies, and all that block prepping stuff

ARC I/C

still running standard head.

thats about it. no scanner otherwise i'd post my dyno sheet.

but it's making 200rwkw odd from 4000rpm and just keep climbing to 7500rpm.

Anyone with a 280 rwkw+ r33 GTST then please post their car, details, & dyno sheet then.  

See how many people are making the big power.

R31Nismoid 270rwkw isnt 280 rwkw +... :spcartman

Nar j/k lol, Thats very nice! Good stuff... Will be awesome to see what power you make when you get the rest of your gear is installed, should be up there with the most powerful SAU members r33 gtst's.

phil had his car tuned at hardcore, made something like 674rwhp on an RB25 with c16 and nitrous. On pump fuel alone it made 534rwhp give or take afew hp. It running a turbo equivilant to a T76, goes nicely indeed. Rb25's are capable of very nice power figures, to the average jo blo 400rwhp is more than enough.

is that the red r33 in 1 of the HPI magazines... if so that thing has a rb26 in it stroked to 2.8 litres or something... will go get the mag No.

sorry my bad that was done by sub- zero performance..... just remembered 1 done by hardcore racing in the same mag an got em confused... lol

RB25DET

INTERNALS: stock.

TURBO: HKS 3037s on standard manifold

BOOST: 14PSI.

OTHER MODS: Walbro fuel pump, 740 cc injectors with a fuel pressure regulater, Z32 AFM, power FC, HKS boost controller, ARC FMIC and full 3 inch exhaust.

POWER: 274rwkw.

FUTURE MODS: low mount manifold, set of cams with a cam gear, and maybe a new head gasket to lower the comp a bit to make it a bit more boost friendly.

thats the biggest load of shit ever.

I saw you pumping bottle of octane booster into your tank.

Dont try and :bs!: now

1 bottle of octane booster does not mean i was running race fuel :Paranoid:

And if i was running race fuel i would be putting in octane booster coz that would give the same effect as me pissing in the tank :(

Also the 322kw run was at selectamaz dyno day not the autosalon dyno where i used the octane boost with the apparent race fuel

Why did it need a rebuild?

It didnt. He was making over 400rwhp with standard internals. Then took the car off the rd for a year and built everything pretty much. Came back on the rd a week or two before Jamboree 04. How ever he didnt run it at full potential at Jambo due to the car still not being run in yet.

The car will be debuting at the track some time soon i believe.

I got to say, INASNT did a good job out there. The thing was hauling the mail nicely down the straights. I dont believe they are that fragile as long as you are sure that you are keeping oil and water temps under control and then thing is tuned well.

Merlis R33 ran a HKS 3040 with about 260-280rwkws at the track and he was one of the more regular attendees at Eastern Creek:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...