Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Unfortunately, it looks like I am going to have to sell my 89 R32 GT-R. I don't actually want to & therefore am trying to leave the decision as late as possible.

My question is this: how easy/difficult is it to sell a pretty much stock R32 GTR (89) in good nick. I would have to ask about $25,000.

Either that or is anyone in the market for a couple of kidneys, one careful owner.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54537-how-easy-is-it-to-sell-gt-rs/
Share on other sites

Well I have all the receipts and stuff to show what it cost to get on the road and it is basically what I would ask for it. The purpose of the exercise is not to make money on the deal.

The problem is, I suppose, getting past the disinformation around about exactly how much/how cheap importing cars really is.

I personally suspect you won't get what you paid for it...everyone wants a bargain and even if your car is good it will be competing against crap cars with a low price tag :P

thats the downside of the ease of importing a 15yo car :rofl:

89 GTRS went up in price about 6-8 weeks ago and can not be had in good condition in Japan at bargin prices anymore so 25 for a cleen GTR is very cheap now.

Most of the cheap ones that did get in have cost huge money to get into good order.

Stick to your price if its clean.

I sold my VERY clean burgundy 89 for more than that a few months ago.

Car isknown to quite a few members on this forum and all have said it was one of the best around, irrespective of year.

A good one is worth it ie, no engine problems, no repair work on the body, no cigarette burns etc.

Cheers

ken

Thanks for the info Ken. I hadn't realised you had sold yours. I saw it down at Collie and like you say, it is very clean/shiney.

I guess mine is a little off yours - but not too far.

Geoff from Prestige reckoned on it being (mine that is, sorry this thread is all about me, me, me) one of the best they had had at till the time of purchase. There again he may say that to all the guys...

Sorry and before I get flamed Geoff is ok by me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...