Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im thinking of changing my engine oil to something fully-synthetic for my car... I currently use genuine nissan oil as motor is relatively standard but will be changing now as the mods are fitted. What is the best oil to use for this car, price is not important. The grade of the nissan oil i currently use is 7.5 W-30 (not sure what it really means)...

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55198-engine-oil/
Share on other sites

I use Mobil 1 (fully-synthetic), i cant say anything bad about the oil. I think the ture test of the oil was when i blow my oil line (turbo -> engine) lost about 4L of oil and was driving the car with oil light on and oil pressure at 0 (dont ask :)) after fixing the line and putting refilling the car with Mobil 1, the engine was OK, my mech said i was very lucky and he didnt think there was a chance in hell my engine would have made it.

so my moneys with Mobil 1 i also hear Redline is good 2

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55198-engine-oil/#findComment-1077119
Share on other sites

the numbers 5w40 etc are viscosity ratinigs of the oil. Viscosity is an internal property of a fluid that offers resistance to flow- it basically refers to how thick or thin the oil is.

We use multi viscosity oils, the first number is the cold viscosity, the second number is the warm viscosity. As our turbo engines require lots of oil flow to our turbos we like oils that are thin when cold (a low number like 5, means the oil flows very well when cold). The "W" following the 5 in 5W40 simply means that the number preceding the 5 is a cold temperature rating that meets SAE requirements.

In one of my old 5litre Torana's id use a nice thick oil to try and reduce tappet noise, whereas a thick oil in an engine like an RB might not give enough flow to keep things happy.

personally i use motul 8100 fully syn 5w40 (~$65 for 5litres), over mobil one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55198-engine-oil/#findComment-1077755
Share on other sites

Guys, (not wanting to spark the my oil is better than your oil debate!!) I was speaking to the owner of one of Brisbane's largest tuning shops & it was interesting to hear his feedback on a number 8-900hp Jap powered drag engines that had been pulled down - bearings didn't last long on Motul (not the 300V Chrono), even less on Mobil 1 - recommended Castrol R.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55198-engine-oil/#findComment-1078191
Share on other sites

Guys, (not wanting to spark the my oil is better than your oil debate!!) I was speaking to the owner of one of Brisbane's largest tuning shops & it was interesting to hear his feedback on a number 8-900hp Jap powered drag engines that had been pulled down - bearings didn't last long on Motul (not the 300V Chrono), even less on Mobil 1 - recommended Castrol R.

I dont think there are many 800-900 hp drag cars on SAU.

End of the day I dont think there will be a largely noticable difference between fully synth oil for the purposes of the majority of cars here.

That being said, I have heard Castrol R is good, more expensive as well.

I run Shell Helix Ultra or whatever it is called.

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55198-engine-oil/#findComment-1078217
Share on other sites

I use Valvoline full synethic 10 w 50... Cold weight is 10 so is thin and runs freely on cold start up but more importantly the hot index rating of 50 is important for heat protection as turbo engines tend to run hotter than non turbo. Although Nissan reccomend a hot weight of 30 which to me seems far too thin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55198-engine-oil/#findComment-1078335
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After @Kinkstaah debacle, I'd never want to try and get it right 😛
    • The hood lines up with the fenders. The front bar doesn't perfectly line up with the fenders where the wheel arch is. You have to 'squeeze' the front bar 'in' as it wants to naturally flare out and be longer on the sides. There's a few threads where people notice this when they only swap a GTR style bumper and front bar. Unless you have genuine OEM items - you may be better served getting conversion kits. There are GTT bumpers to fit GTR hoods. There are GTR hoods (non genuine) to fit the GTT bracketry. MAY  
    • The real question is, on some of those wild roads they call highways, how many times did a farmer in an old ute from the early 2000s blaze past you over double lines?   Tassie is a wild and really cool place, and after doing a work related road trip there January of 24, I understand why Targa Tasmania is ran there, and is so tough to do well at! We had a brand new Camry Hybrid that handled quite nicely, and thankfully weren't in an old car, because cresting some of those hills in a 100kmh zone for it to suddenly be like "surprise f**kers, this is a recommended 30kmh hard right turn" wouldn't be pretty. We weren't racing the Camry around, but we weren't slouching in the bends either. But my lord those old farmers know their old clapped out utes, and those roads, as they were absolutely hammering it!   You're also super lucky to make it up to Mt Wellingtong this time of year. It's often road closed with snow/ice! Also, I hope you hit up Salamander Road in Hobart for some insanely good food (I highly recommend the dimly lit Irish pub for a Guiness Pie, or even the bangers and mash!!!)   How long did the Ferry take to get across? I want to do a road trip of Tas on my own time, but I get horrifically sea sick, and I don't want me on the Ferry, just the car 😛
    • So far so good, about 30km on it so far and nothing out of sorts yet thankfully
    • Look at @Kinkstaah's thread on the issue.
×
×
  • Create New...