My 100RWKW R33 Dyno Results

[DezertEagle]

Dyno'd my car today.

12psi boost my car would not go over 100kw - 98.3, 99.4, 97.3 etc

Something was seriously wrong and I was craping in my pants. Clutch slippage was first check, it wasn't that because the dyno has a 'traction something or other monitor'

We tried one other thing - the Crank Angle Sensor (or I'm pretty sure it's that). It was adjusted anti-clockwise slightly and we crossed our fingers.

First run we hit 169.1kw at the wheels! Which relieved me, greatly, and the mechanic. It dropped to 169.8 then a bit lower because of heat possibly, but by going to the dyno today I gained around 70rwkw.

Here is there dyno graph:

The mechanic assures me its safe, it is not pinging and according to the dyno the mixture is 'extraordinarily' rich.

PowerFC here I come!

Mods are:

- Pod Filter

- Turbo back 3" Exhaust and 7.5L Cat

- Hybrid 800x300 FMIC

- GFB Bleed Valve set to 12psi

[morlock]

What mods u running on ur R33?

[666DAN]

So the base timing was too retarded?

[DezertEagle]

So the base timing was too retarded?

"It was set right back" according to the mechanic.

[666DAN]

That would have felt like a pig on the road...a feeling similar to try to push a potato down a straw

[DezertEagle]

That would have felt like a pig on the road...a feeling similar to try to push a potato down a straw

The surprising thing is..... it felt fast!

But damn does it feel fast now... I can't even begin to imagine something with 250 - 300rwkw.

[Boosted Zed]

It is on at the moment no rain there today they say so unless it rains it is ON.

Yes Paul I have a cold but will be there tonight with the speed boat.

[Blitz]

Wrong thread John.

[wilch]

Scary stuff DezertEagle.

After I installed my fmic and put my car on the UAS dyno with 11psi I got a scare too, I only made 6kw more at the rear wheels than when i had it on the same dyno with the stock intercooler.

A quick check of the timing and the base timing was out. They fixed it up quickly...Ran it again and boom 184.2rwkw! phew. hehe

Damn that base timing scaring the crap out of us. LOL

[B-Man]

Wrong thread John.

Ha ha ha ha ha - Some one give him a lesson !

[DezertEagle]

Wilch - Yes, timing is quite crucial lol. 184 is very good mate! I think I have more timing to play with then *evil grin*

[cameron]

anti clock wise = advanced timing - on the CAS.

Don't set it so the screws are hard up against the cas when turned anticlock wise other wise you will damage your engine.

Jun

[DezertEagle]

Cameron, how far is too far? Any pics of the sensor position you can share with me?

[Duncan]

please if you don't know what you are trying for, don't just turn the CAS.

You should set and check it using a timing light

[WazR32GTSt]

Dyno'd my car today.

12psi boost my car would not go over 100kw - 98.3, 99.4, 97.3 etc

Something was seriously wrong and I was craping in my pants. Clutch slippage was first check, it wasn't that because the dyno has a 'traction something or other monitor'

We tried one other thing - the Crank Angle Sensor (or I'm pretty sure it's that). It was adjusted anti-clockwise slightly and we crossed our fingers.

First run we hit 169.1kw at the wheels! Which relieved me, greatly, and the mechanic. It dropped to 169.8 then a bit lower because of heat possibly, but by going to the dyno today I gained around 70rwkw.

Here is there dyno graph:

 

The mechanic assures me its safe, it is not pinging and according to the dyno the mixture is 'extraordinarily' rich.

PowerFC here I come!

Mods are:

- Pod Filter

- Turbo back 3" Exhaust and 7.5L Cat

- Hybrid 800x300 FMIC

- GFB Bleed Valve set to 12psi

IT:40

intake temp 40degC??

sounds unusually high to me. when my car was on the dyno the IT was 14degC

from what i understand, shootout mode adjusts your figure if its deemed 'hot' so your real figure may be lower than what you are displaying...

(also, you should block out your number plate before you post something on the internet)

[DezertEagle]

Yeh, I'm going to Unique Monday morning, hopefully they can find the optimum CAS position on my car.

IT - 40deg does sound suss and I don't know what's going on there either. Me and the mechanic were both just worried about the under 100kw readings my car was making.

[Cubes]

I've recentl had a few issues with massive power dips running a RB30DET (rb25 head) on the stock rb20t ecu.

At the moment it makes 11psi on the stock acutuator, it hits a fuel cut and runs really rich (well in to the 10's).

I had a really bad surging feel. Advanced the timing & it smoothed out all the power dips/surges.

It will be on the dyno tomorrow to find out if an safc & some more timing will make it run near perfect.

Hopefully all goes well otherwise I have to limp it around under 4000rpm until I get the powerFC near xmas.

[lukits01]

I seem to be having the same problem here, my car feels sluggish and slow

proven by an embarassing 19sec pass down the 1/4

I checked the timing with a timing light and its on 0deg

The timing marker is on the first orange line

the thing is the CAS has allready been turned anti-clockwise to the max

any ideas what could be causing it?

[raist60]

That graph looks funny... torque is exactly the same shape yet power is a completely different shape on those 2 runs.

Ie. The actual torque curve has stayed the same but just gotten higher, yet the power has changed from flat to a proper curve...

edit: actually no im just looking at the wrong plot, my god that first run looks like a push bike with a drunk dude peddling

[PlasticStan]

I seem to be having the same problem here, my car feels sluggish and slow

proven by an embarassing 19sec pass down the 1/4

I checked the timing with a timing light and its on 0deg  

The timing marker is on the first orange line

the thing is the CAS has allready been turned anti-clockwise to the max  

any ideas what could be causing it?

You need to turn the CAS clockwise to retard the timing, sounds like yours is fully advanced! 15 deg is what it should be set at. Third white mark after the orange mark.