Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, here goes....

About 4 or 5 months ago I bought myself another R32 GTST with the intention of making it "my ideal car". It is going to be a daily driver.

I am not that into speed. The turbo back exhaust on my old R32 was fast enough for me to have heaps of fun.... I just want something really nice to look at that is also very fun to drive without losing my licence every time I accelerate.

I wanted to do the following to it:

RB25DET

18 inch Wheels

full respray

Full GTR bodykit (not guards)

turbo back exhaust

front mounted intercooler

Apexi AVC-R @ 11psi

Apexi Power Intake Pod - would love to keep the standard panel filter but intercooler piping wont allow for it.

Here is my progress:

RB25DET - waiting on dodgy supplier to even get back to me - read below

18 inch Wheels - I know the ones I want

full respray - colour sorted - quote pending

Full GTR bodykit (not guards) - have everything except rear pods and headlights and front bumper support

turbo back exhaust - DONE

front mounted intercooler - DONE

Apexi AVC-R @ 11psi - when engine is sorted

Apexi Power Intake Pod - when engine is sorted

My problem:

My mechanic told me that he could get me an RB25DET half cut from Japan for $2000. He said that he has a supplier who has promised this. I have not outlaid any money on this engine, however it is 4 months later, and the guy is just not returning his calls. Looks like it will never eventuate! MY mechanic is not dodgy, and doesn't feed me bs. He is a good guy, but obviously has nothing to work with...

I am thinking that I am either going to just put a new high-flowed turbo on the standard RB20DET, and go ahead with the rest of the mods (including AVCR) instead of waiting any longer.... It seems the only other option is to get an RB25DET from somewhere else and pay $3500 and up for a halfcut.

What would you do considering my initial aims....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60244-what-would-you-do-r32-project/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

GTR Bodykit = Lame

Your car will never be a GTR so why try and make it look like one? Anyone who knows skylines will be able to pick it as a fake anyway.

Do you wear a really bad fake rolex too, by any chance?

Does your g/f have a $10 Louis Vuitton bag with LM on it instead of LV?

.. I've got a better idea, just make it look like a really tough GTST! :D

:(

Umm...so whos car is it?????

Flat out the best looking GTST typically have GTR front bars, in my opinion they are the only bar that looks good on the R32, no aftermarket bar comes close...

GTR Bodykit = Lame

Your car will never be a GTR so why try and make it look like one? Anyone who knows skylines will be able to pick it as a fake anyway.

...  

In the words of the wise Geoffrey Lebowski "Well, like... thats just your opinion man":)

My 2c, if its done properly then it will look good so wheres the harm. Throw an RB25 in it and you will have 12.5-13 sec 1/4 performance to:thumbsup:

GTR Bodykit = Lame

Your car will never be a GTR so why try and make it look like one? Anyone who knows skylines will be able to pick it as a fake anyway.

Do you wear a really bad fake rolex too, by any chance?

Does your g/f have a $10 Louis Vuitton bag with LM on it instead of LV?

.. I've got a better idea, just make it look like a really tough GTST! :D  

:(

OK I had a feeling that I would get the response... No problem.... It is just my opinion that the R32 GTR is one of the best looking cars on tyhe road. I Love the front bars and I love the rear wings, so I am going to fit one on my car. I will not be fitting GTR badges, and I will never pretend that is a GTR. My car is for me and not what other people think it is or isnt.... I don't wear a fake rolex, and my girlfreind doesn't have a fake bag (that I know of) - I just like the look and don't care what idiots like you say.

GTR Bodykit = Lame

Your car will never be a GTR so why try and make it look like one? Anyone who knows skylines will be able to pick it as a fake anyway.

Do you wear a really bad fake rolex too, by any chance?

Does your g/f have a $10 Louis Vuitton bag with LM on it instead of LV?

.. I've got a better idea, just make it look like a really tough GTST! :D  

:(

WTF? You're a ****ing egg. Where did he say he was making a "fake" GTR? From the way I read his thread, he wanted to IMPROVE the looks of the GTST.

Stock Gtst's look shit house, and as with most people on this site, they'll say the GTR body kit is the nicest factory kit out there.

Umm...so whos car is it?????

Flat out the best looking GTST typically have GTR front bars, in my opinion they are the only bar that looks good on the R32, no aftermarket bar comes close...

In the words of the wise Geoffrey Lebowski "Well, like... thats just your opinion man":)

My 2c, if its done properly then it will look good so wheres the harm. Throw an RB25 in it and you will have 12.5-13 sec 1/4 performance to:thumbsup:

well said royce

dosnt hurt to have a gtr front bar

makes more room a fmic

most of the people that complain about the gtr bar on gts are the people with gtr's, i dont see the harm.

each to their own

I've got a GTR kit on my 32 (except for the bonnet and grill). I never pretend that my car is a GTR and am glad that people don't think I have a GTR or else everyone would want to race me. I just think the kit is the best looking out there and the most practical. I'm hoping to get a GTR or carbon fibre bonnet in the future for the weight loss (however little it is) and will probably get a different grill to the GTR so that nobody thinks it is a GTR. As far as the original plan stated in this thread, it sounds great. If you can't get the RB25, how about just spending the money on the RB20? You also didn't include a new clutch on your list, mine is stuffed and the car only has a cat back and a pod filter.

I would love to know how hard a HKS 2510 would go on an RB20. Based on ppl results with the 2530 the 2510 would have to offer near std response, and with the usual breathing mods, ecu and cam gear etc etc it may even have better then std response. By std i mean RB20 with std exhaust etc

And it would have to bee good for a punchy 180-190rwkws. I would not be surprised to see it top 200rwkws with 1.3bar all on the std injectors and AFM. It may lack top end pull but on a street car i am curious of going that route myself:)

Car already has Apexi damper adjustable suspension so that all taken care of...

Not too interested in spending $3500 on the RB20 as it will be money that never returns to my pocket... If i put an RB25 in then the car will have an edge when selling, and will have less kms, and some of the $$$ will be returnd when selling.

If I keep the RB20, then I will most probably just buy an R34 turbo, and leave it at that... Then if anything goes wrong with the RB20, I will upgrade to an RB25.

I could be wrong though... Can anybody tell me any experience they have had rebuilding an RB20 (cost, effort, benefits when selling).

Roy: The guy asked for an opinion and I gave it. People who make their cars look like GTRs including badging it as a GTR are pathetic. I've always thought this even before I bought a skyline. I've seen people on the side of the street pointing and laughing at guys who have GTR badges on GTSTs.

ROY, This is not about "just front bars!!" this is about dressing up a car with grill, bonnet, bar, wing etc. to look like something that is not for the sake of their car looking cool. "Duh I know, Duh lets put a GTR kit on it.. that hasnt been done before" Very imaginative. Very imaginative.

In this instance its not such a big deal because MR R32 is not badging it as a GTR. But for gods sake wheres the creativity? I think he'd be much better off making it look like a tough GTST as opposed to another GTR look-alike Wannabe.

For EXAMPLE: do the front bar, stock bonnet but and no rear wing. Leave the gtst sticker on it.. be proud of your car!

silver gts-t: I quite like your car because its still obviously a GTST and looks hot! :(

Nismo_boy: Thanks.. I've never been called an egg before..? Actually I quite like the look of a tidy stock GTST lowered on a big set of wheels. I dont think they look shit house at all. The most awesome GTST's i've seen have not had GTR body parts bolted onto it.

Furthermore, when the less educated mates of yours see your car and go "oh my god sick man you've got a GTR?" what do you say? "err no actually its a gtst".. "but its got mods"..

Well, I give up.

Roy: The guy asked for an opinion and I gave it. People who make their cars look like GTRs including badging it as a GTR are pathetic. I've always thought this even before I bought a skyline. I've seen people on the side of the street pointing and laughing at guys who have GTR badges on GTSTs.  

ROY, This is not about "just front bars!!" this is about dressing up a car with grill, bonnet, bar, wing etc. to look like something that is not for the sake of their car looking cool. "Duh I know, Duh lets put a GTR kit on it.. that hasnt been done before" Very imaginative. Very imaginative.

In this instance its not such a big deal because MR R32 is not badging it as a GTR. But for gods sake wheres the creativity? I think he'd be much better off making it look like a tough GTST as opposed to another GTR look-alike Wannabe.  

For EXAMPLE: do the front bar, stock bonnet but and no rear wing. Leave the gtst sticker on it.. be proud of your car!

silver gts-t: I quite like your car because its still obviously a GTST and looks hot! :(

Nismo_boy: Thanks.. I've never been called an egg before..? Actually I quite like the look of a tidy stock GTST lowered on a big set of wheels. I dont think they look shit house at all. The most awesome GTST's i've seen have not had GTR body parts bolted onto it.

Furthermore, when the less educated mates of yours see your car and go "oh my god sick man you've got a GTR?" what do you say? "err no actually its a gtst".. "but its got mods"..

Well, I give up.

Thanks for the objective reply pentae. I understand what you are trying to say - however we disagree... I don't really like any kits that are available for the GTST and dont really like the stock look (I also dont really like the no rear wing look - strange I know - everyone loves it!).

In terms of educating friends on GTR's this is much easier said than done... I have been trying on 2 friends to and from work for days now... Mainly R33's, and they can't tell the difference no matter how many differences I point out.

My plan.... get number plates declaring that it is a GTST - because I am proud that it is a GTST.

Thanks for the objective reply pentae. I understand what you are trying to say - however we disagree... I don't really like any kits that are available for the GTST and dont really like the stock look (I also dont really like the no rear wing look - strange I know - everyone loves it!).

In terms of educating friends on GTR's this is much easier said than done... I have been trying on 2 friends to and from work for days now... Mainly R33's, and they can't tell the difference no matter how many differences I point out.

My plan.... get number plates declaring that it is a GTST - because I am proud that it is a GTST.

you should b in parliment dude

very inspirational

(but i aint putting the wing back on)

I hear you Pentae, but its his car. I dont understand why ppl do things, but hey its not my coin. I think the GTST can look tough enough without going to the extreames of GTR kits etc.

That is until you park next to a GTR at the track and you are reminded just how wimpy they look without the guards etc etc:(

As for mods...well mine is race modded after a small fire at Winton the other weekend:( Std engine but with Trust turbo kit, HKS filter, exhaust and front mount, PFc, injecotrs and susp and brake work..i love it:thumbsup:

Excuse all the photos, but i just love the thing R32 GTST rock:)

Before Fire...;):):(:)

Wear the GTST badge with pride

462Drags_Rear_QTR.jpg

Needs a GTR front bar....

462Before.JPG

462Drags_Side_burnout.jpg

After Fire:(:(:(:D:(

2471Resize_of_Picture_045-med.jpg

462Toasted.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...