Jump to content
SAU Community

Are thes mods worth it? Opinions please

benl1981

By benl1981,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
Posted

I currently have a R33 with the RB25DET, very happy with it but would like to get a little bit more out of it

Current mods:

3.5" Cat back exhaust - Kakimoto or whatever it is.

Solenoid constant earth on wastegate solenoid

Planned mods and what I hope to gain:

3" dump/front pipe - hope to get 5-10kw and earlier spool up. Currently full boost arrives by 2500rpm in the higher gears and a little bit above that in 1st and 2nd. Will this be reduced by 300-500rpm? Will it be much more noisy?

Bigger SMIC - I dont want to go front mount. I'm thinking maybe just an R34 cooler or supre. Maybe the R34 because it is easier. Maybe 3-5kw by itself

Mainly to provide little bit more safety if increase boost by 2psi

Cheap boost controller - increase boost by 2psi - to about 10psi

Also High flow Panel filter - are these worthwile. I read something in a performance mag that they make no diffeence compared to stock paper one?

Would this give me 170-180RWKW. What 1/4mile time - mid 13s you think?

I have heard the ECU would need to be remapped for much above this?

Could I get away with these mods?

Many thanks!!!

slamm Rising Star

slamm

Posted
Posted

definatly dump pipe. Don't know about r34 intercooler though. Why not FMIC. There are some bargains flying around if you look. (4sale boards, group buys etc...) turbosmart make the cheapest boost controllers i think, though as I hear they are not always to be trusted. maybe GFBits do the same thing. Also have heard of mechanics being able to adjust the boost for a couple of hundred bucks blocking off things etc.... 170kw? maybe. if you boost up to 12psi. but only 10. don't know.

so after all this, dump pipe a definate. dbl or single I don't think matters. I've got a dbl but others say it makes no difference.

hope this is a start.

Cheers

cameron Mentor

cameron

Posted
Posted

Dumpipe - Deffiently a Yes & Noise factor not noticable. - Jeeeseee.. how much earlier do you want boost to come on :uhh: You need to take a ride in a Skyline with a big Turbo then you'll know what lag is ;) otherwise i woudn't be complaining :wassup:

Intercooler - I'd go front mount deffiently! Its really pointless upgrading to a R34 sidemount cooler as their only a little bit bigger.

All that will not give you 170 - 180rwkw's on 10psi. - Inless you go frontmount around 12 psi of boost & a bigger fuel pump (to be on the safe side!) :P

Yes stock ECU should be fine but after that sorta of power level you'll have to upgrade to a PFC or Wolf 3D etc.

:)

Jun

JAPCAB Proficient

JAPCAB

Posted
Posted

You can notch up the boost to about 12p with your current setup, this will give you a nice power gain. The upgraded panel is a good way to get your engine some more air, other than that pop in a front mount. upgrading to a bigger SMIC you wont really notice much....remember with a cooler, its cooling capability is relative to its surface area.

KamikazeR33 Grand Master

KamikazeR33

Posted
Posted

actually, std r33 intercooler is fine for a proven 185rwkws

i was running std cooler, turbo, cat back exhaust, safc and boost controller set to 11psi and it was running 175rwkws fine everyday

aKTiVE Collaborator

aKTiVE

Posted
Posted

To me it sounds like your trying to gain power with the least amount of attention as possible - want it to be safe for when a cop goes over your car?

Wise move. hehe.

Panel Filters are good, i've used a panel filter with a modified airbox in larger power applications to give that 'stock' look and feel. Look at doing a larger more direct cold air intake into the bottom of your airbox, and cut a hole in the bottom of your airbox... works a treat and no one can see it.... prolonging you dont use like chrome pipes and stuff... paint everything black !

Dump Pipe, man you shouldnt even be asking if you should do that... JUST DO IT ! i gained a lot of kw from a dump and front pipe, definitely the way to go.

Side Mount Intercoolers i am not a fan of really... are you doing the sidemount so that its pretty much unnoticeable? From a few guys here, the power your chasing you don't necessarily have to change this feature... but it would most likely help. an ample front mount will be much better, spray it black and no one will have a clue that you have a front mount.

aKTiVE Collaborator

aKTiVE

Posted
Posted

Agreed, the GTR intercooler is very sufficient, tried/tested/proven so to speak... but i dont know... i think they are quite expensive compared to getting a kit from ARC or something which includes piping and is a bolt on modification for your specific car - new as well.

Its been a while since i scouted the market for a second hand intercooler (never looked for a 2nd hand cooler) but the last time i saw a GTR Intercooler for sale it was around the $500 mark... ?

are they still the same price?

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks again. Yes Akitive, I just want to keep it basically stock with a little more go. I like the way it goes so I don't want to introduce any lag etc. Just a bit more I'm after :)

I don't really like my cars to be too attention grabbing. Already with 3 1/2 inch catback it is a little noisy if at idle in carpark i.e. people turn around when you drive past them sometimes

I dont really want front mount because I know this will cost best part of 700- $1000 and I dont want to run heaps of boost. 170-180RWKW would be more than adequate.

muaythailuke Rising Star

muaythailuke

Posted
Posted

The R34 cooler would be a good option if you want to keep it looking stock and you dont have to worry about changing all the piping and a fmic may slighty increase lag not decrease it like you wanted. A guy I know is running a R34 side mount cooler on his RB20 and he's around 220-230rwkw(thats with all the other bolt on mods of course)

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

changing to a fmic intercooler will add a bit more lag to the system, if you do fit a fmic be sure to do a full 3" exhaust if you dont have one to balance out the lag in the system. an upgrade to a 3" dump over the stock dump pipe and intercooler should even out the lag and return the response to similar what the stock response "lag" was like

benl1981 Grand Master

benl1981

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the advice. I might skip FMIC for now. I think I may be happy with 170-180RWKW which it seems the FMount isn't exactly necessary.

Is the SAFC needed you think? How much do you lean it out if any , or richen. I suppose different for load and revs...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...