Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[KiwiRS4T]

Hey all,

I have built the digital fuel adjuster kit but have lost the instructions. The kit works fine but I need to adjust the trim pots and I am just guessing with the instructions. Does anyone have an electronic copy of the instructions they can pm me... Or is there anyone in newy with the instructions that I borrow for a day to make a copy?

Don't guess - failure without an AFR meter could be disaster! If no-one has an electronic copy then you could try the Jaycar website or even email Jaycar for an electronic version. If all else fails I can copy and post to you (but this would be a last resort as it could take a week from here).

Bob

[DaveB]

If you still need it tonight I can scan mine then

[**RB2530**]

Yep thanks for the replies...

I meant guess as far as bench top calibration of the controller itself...Not guess wrt to tuning on the car... There a 3 multiturn and 1 single turn trimpots that basically calibrate the unit and set the ranges etc.

I will try Jaycar tonight or on the weekend..If I have no luck I will take you up on your offer...

cheers

[DaveB]

oops, sorry - I thought you said IEBC!?! my bad. I only have IEBC instructions (at this stage...) sorry

[**RB2530**]

Went to Jaycar and ended up buying the book with all of the Silicon Chip kits in it...looks like an awesome read.....thanks anyway

[DaveB]

cool, good luck with it

Edited October 23, 2008 by DaveB

[wisey18]

I've read through most of this but couldn't find the answer I was looking for.

I have an R34 GTT so it has the dual boost solenoid.

Was just wondering if I can still use this solenoid with the Jaycar IEBC?

At the moment I have the solenoid earthed to the chassis to cancel out the dual stage.

When I use the IEBC will it still be dual stage or single stage? Not 100% sure.

Thanks

[KiwiRS4T]

I've read through most of this but couldn't find the answer I was looking for.

I have an R34 GTT so it has the dual boost solenoid.

Was just wondering if I can still use this solenoid with the Jaycar IEBC?

At the moment I have the solenoid earthed to the chassis to cancel out the dual stage.

When I use the IEBC will it still be dual stage or single stage? Not 100% sure.

Thanks

Your solenoid is not dual boost. It cycles at two different rates determined by the ECU. The IEBC is wired in to replace this function of the ECU and will cause the solenoid to cycle at up to 64 different rates. It is not a good practice to earth the solenoid permanently. You would be better to reroute the hoses (bypassing the solenoid altogether) as per the ten minute fix detailed in the Jaycar thread. I'm too tired to put in a link for you but let me know if you can't find it and i"ll do that tonight (that's tomorrow AU time).

[wisey18]

Your solenoid is not dual boost. It cycles at two different rates determined by the ECU. The IEBC is wired in to replace this function of the ECU and will cause the solenoid to cycle at up to 64 different rates. It is not a good practice to earth the solenoid permanently. You would be better to reroute the hoses (bypassing the solenoid altogether) as per the ten minute fix detailed in the Jaycar thread. I'm too tired to put in a link for you but let me know if you can't find it and i"ll do that tonight (that's tomorrow AU time).

That's all I needed to know.

I've read through how to do the reroute so will do that and wire the solenoid back up the way it was before.

Thanks KiwiRS4T for that info.

[33driver]

anyone having luck with these units? I'm halfway through installation however my IEBC unit it not showing anything on the output circuit, it shows 10 to 12v, which is defiantely not right as it should be a grounded switching circuit. If I remove the output led, the 12v stops but I still can't get the solenoid to function. I've checked all teh diodes and links and everything looks right, I suspect once of the IC's isn't working correctly but I have no idea how to test them. Anyone had similar issues?

Cheers,

Matt

[33driver]

Thought i'd at least put up how I'm going with my setup, I redid all the solder joints and tested them all, turns out it was a dud LED on the output circuit that was screwing things up for me, going to do a boost curve tune tomorrow, but here are some pics of the install, I relocated the status LED's, hi/low map switch and put in some indicators for good measure. Let me know what you think, I'm quite happy with how it turned out.

I'll let the pictures do most of hte explaining

Wiring harnesses from the car ready to connect to the boost controller

Boost controller ready to go in, the blue cable is the extension for the LED's which I mounted off the main the unit (cable is actually Cat5 )

Close up of 6 pin plugs

Wiring before tidy up, breakout board for 12V that I built on the left, boost controller mounted on the right under the dash

Another shot of the boost controller

Another shot with boost controller mounted

High/Low boost switch

Mounted the 3 status leds in the ash tray (power, input, output), LED's on the right are the indicators for high/low boost maps

Close up of LED box with labels

All hidden away

All turned on

All turned on, no flash this time

Wide angle shot with controller in glove box

All lights are go! high map selected and output circuit all lit up

Boost controller

Enjoy!

[KiwiRS4T]

Very neat! Have you got it working? Tip if you haven't - set the input to 0 and stand outside the car by the solenoid while you turn up the output and hear when the solenoid starts cycling - it probably won't do anything until about output level 6

[33driver]

yeah solenoid is functioning, at start up it moves between 4-6 on the input, after it warms up drops to 2-3 i've messed with the solenoid settings and you can hear/feel the solenoid chatting so it all looks goo so far!

will know tomorrow once I start messing with the boost maps, i've got the new pumbing done just got to actually put it in. How far have you got with yours?

matt

Edited January 25, 2009 by 33driver

[KiwiRS4T]

yeah solenoid is functioning, at start up it moves between 4-6 on the input, after it warms up drops to 2-3 i've messed with the solenoid settings and you can hear/feel the solenoid chatting so it all looks goo so far!

will know tomorrow once I start messing with the boost maps, i've got the new pumbing done just got to actually put it in. How far have you got with yours?

matt

Was working perfectly holding 10lb with the stock turbo and 16 with my GCG turbo. Small hiccup, wrote the car off just looking for another RS4T!

[DaveB]

Was working perfectly holding 10lb with the stock turbo and 16 with my GCG turbo. Small hiccup, wrote the car off just looking for another RS4T!

Small hiccup??? Damn! What happened - pics?

[33driver]

ok so went out and tuned it today, was a little frustrating reading the manual as it contradicts itself a lot, however think I have it worked out.

I'm at 100% boost solenoid at about input 33 for stockish boost (maybe a tad more). So i'm working on getting a smooth map happening, I did have some funky spike towards the end of the map, however seem to have got that under control after feathering the end of the map back to 0.

What i'm having trouble with is initial surge, if i'm at 500rpm, floor it in say 3rd, it spikes up to 1bar (about 15psi) before settling down as the load points come down and revs go up.

I figure its just playing with how it comes on boost, but would be interested to see what your (or anyones) boost maps are like? Haven't done anything with the high map yet, want to get the low map working.

Cheers,

Matt

[KiwiRS4T]

ok so went out and tuned it today, was a little frustrating reading the manual as it contradicts itself a lot, however think I have it worked out.

I'm at 100% boost solenoid at about input 33 for stockish boost (maybe a tad more). So i'm working on getting a smooth map happening, I did have some funky spike towards the end of the map, however seem to have got that under control after feathering the end of the map back to 0.

What i'm having trouble with is initial surge, if i'm at 500rpm, floor it in say 3rd, it spikes up to 1bar (about 15psi) before settling down as the load points come down and revs go up.

I figure its just playing with how it comes on boost, but would be interested to see what your (or anyones) boost maps are like? Haven't done anything with the high map yet, want to get the low map working.

Cheers,

Matt

You don't want to be at 100% boost solenoid - you need to make your vent smaller untl your max solenoid load is about 70 -80%max

[33driver]

i've set the vent size at 2mm, which i thought would be small enough, I've noticed that if i set it to say 50 - 80% it makes the same boost? How did you actually adjust the amount of boost it was pushing?

Am I reading this correctly, the higher the percentage the more boost? As that doesn't appear to be whats happening, that said, it could be that the vent size is too big. I've fixed the surge at the start i think, was loading it in second gear, but should have done it in third as it hits full load quicker, so it was trying to boost earlier.

But i still don't understand how to adjust the 'boost level'.

[33driver]

ok just messed with the settings again, i put my highest limit to 72%, same map all round and its now boosting high consistently i THINK so I think i'm getting it into the right range. I think if I put it down to about 60% i'll be at stock boost level (roughly) then I should be good to go. What vent sizing and sort of peak psi were you hitting?

[KiwiRS4T]

ok just messed with the settings again, i put my highest limit to 72%, same map all round and its now boosting high consistently i THINK so I think i'm getting it into the right range. I think if I put it down to about 60% i'll be at stock boost level (roughly) then I should be good to go. What vent sizing and sort of peak psi were you hitting?

I've no idea about the size of the vent because i had a needle valve on that line and just wound it up or down to suit. I observed the boost without the EBC to see when it came in and with the GCG that was in the 2000 rev band and would go off the scale if I let it. I had to limit boost at low revs to about 10psi otherwise I would get surging but over about 3000 built it up to 16 and turned down the EBC at the top to maintain boost. You really need two people to do it safely or you''ll end up doing 180 while not watching where you're going!! You don't really need two boost maps because boost is basically controlled by your right foot, not rpm so I could lend my car to a couple of old ladies and they could drive it no problem. Later I developed two maps -one for nights ( I am a night shift workerand drive quite a bit at night) and another for hot days (turn down the ebc a bit to allow some more flow ).