Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

U mean 90w for lowbeam?

I was pulled over by police for running them in my first car.

I was told to but back the origonal spec ones.

I think I was running 90/110 standard they were 45/55.

It also damages the reflective bit of the light after a while as it gets too hot and starts to peel.

Geeze,

I just got my r33 1 mth ago...first the left high beam went, now the left lowbeam is also gone! bloody.........

The previous owner had changed all the bulbs to Philips Enon 6000K. Dun ask me what they are, I just know they are good...well, until today...cos I dun have any beams on the left. Kinda sux.....

Help Anyone? I have read the whole thread, but no one can tell me how to fix it step by step.

timber32 , did you use a new switch assembly or used ?

if used thats your problem its not much better than yours . they are known to play up in all nissans not just skylines

is there seperate relays for left and right headlights ???

if so is it possible to join the two switch wires up which turn the relay on. that way wen u turn the knob on for the lights and there is bad contact, u still get both the relays goin on ??

is there seperate relays for left and right headlights ???

if so is it possible to join the two switch wires up which turn the relay on. that way wen u turn the knob on for the lights and there is bad contact, u still get both the relays goin on ??

Yep.. and Yep..

Thats what I did.

I mentioned it earlier on in this thread I think.

I pulled the dash switch out then soldered them both together at the end.. Or did I use a wire to join them.. It was a loooong time ago I did this mod. 2years to be exact. :D

Still working fine. :thumbsup:

So pull the switch out and bridge the two roll switches together.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

as already mentioned, if you can tap the switch and the lights flicker on turn on temporarily, then its most likely the little plastic bits which push the contacts open and closed in the light switch. its very easy to spot them once you open the switch, they are in a line of 3 and are spring loaded. The one that has melted (either just cus nissan miscalculated current draw with age/ higher wattage bulbs used/ or accessories being run from the light circuit ie gauges) is pretty obvious to see, what i did for a temporary measure was to trim the melted bits off as it tends to mushroom at the top, then grabbed the spring and stretched it out a bit more to make up for the part that melted, then reassembled it and checked continuity at the plug. Sure this solution isnt long term if your setup remains identicle, but it is free :( and the switch is not hard at all to take apart and reassemble. just wish id taken fotos for you lot.

switch.jpg

  • 8 months later...

Bringing up an old thread, as it just saved my ass quite a few dollars!

Everything is spot on... the switch was the cause of one of my headlights being out. Just took it out and gave it a good cleaning, played with the springs a bit, and Bob's ya uncle, all is sweet now!!!! Cheerio for everyone that posted here :D

Now to find a thread to fix my faulty climate control lol :headspin:

  • 5 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

well I have this issue now ;)

the right globe sometimes doesn't work, and the left I think blew last night!

hmmmm

I might try cubes trick! so for the R32 GTR a H1 globe is the one needed for the projector style low beam ? correct?

Apparently it's either H1 or H3 depending upon the car. From what I've read there doesn't seem to be any reason/correlation between model and bulb.

At the risk of stating the obvious, have you swapped bulbs between headlights to check it's not the globe?

Cubes' trick seems like the goods, but if it dies you'll lose both headlights. I tried buttondownpsycho's trick and it worked but I was messing around with the headlights and highbeam switches and managed to melt another little pot.

Used switches are under $50 from JustJap.

haha I didnt know this was a big issue with nissans Far out Hey as well as the head lights does anybody get the sticking Indicator I have to fiddle with the Hazzeds to fix it :s dont know WTF is with that. I think they must be dodgy Wireing or maybe there is a water Prob only seems to happen on Rainy days or very cold morning when there is Due.

Can anyone confirm that R32 headlights do not run relays?

For what it's worth, when I took my car to an autoelec with the headlight problem, he suggested putting in a relay, from the working headlight, to fix it.

*shrug*

  • 6 months later...

I ahd the same problem except was right side , replaced switch and problem solved :P

Now 1yr later has started again , mechanic's had been checking electrical problem {turns out to be afm again} and since then right headlight playing up again >_< This time I think it may be the relay {getting old }

For the rest of you though, I would suggest you track down a spare light switch and give that a go . As said above should only be $50. :sorcerer:

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...