Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

LOL it was a DR30 and in car film . Its on the video "The Great race , the Turbolent years Bathurst 1986 - 1992" . Great driving for basically an overgrown Datsun 1600 with a top endy FJ20ET .

It was interesting to watch the R31's race , they appeared to be driven on the rev limit everywhere .

show me graphs of an rb20 and an sr20 with the same turbo, this will be a good comparison... not based on whether 6 cylinders is better then 4, but rather a direct engine to engine comparison

i think i can answer this one

2 180sx's....one has a 1992 SR20DET redtop with a HKS2530 @ 1.2bar, 600x300x80mm FMIC, 3" exhuast, apexi intake, power FC, HKS 550cc injectors, walbro 550HP pump, OS giken twinplate Clutch - on a very convservitive dyno (at a dyno day) it made 191.8rwkw. stock cams/internals

the other 180sx, has a 1992 RB20DET, with a HKS2530 @1.1bar(same turbo), 600x300x80mm FMIC (same IC), 3" exhuast (same), K&N intake, GTR fuel pump, stock injectors but a FPR (fuel pressure regulator) and a SAFC tuned with the stock computer. it made (at the same dyno day, a few mins after the other 180sx) 192.0rwkw. stock cams/internals

virtually identical power - the torque curves were interesting.....the SR20 was higher untill 4000rpm where the RB took over.....so the SR has the lower end...but it fell away from 6000rpm...where the RB stayed strong to 8000rpm. i worked out the "approx" area under the graphs....the RB had it by about 10% more...due to the wider power band.

now...when racing....from a standing start....the SR wins untill mid-end of 2nd gear, where the RB pulls on it....then by the time 4th comes...its pulled 1.5-2 lengths - its a similar situation when racing supra's...RB takes over in 2nd and continues to pull away...on a rolling start its RB all the way...from 110kph in 3rd gear (4500rpm in the RB , PERFECT from launching from) it nails the SR

the top end of the RB helps here......

i guess u should come to ur own conclusions about these "results" :(

i'll have some results for this thread next week.

rb20det stock internals

HKS gt2530

cam gears

gtr pump

3 inch -> 3 1/2 inch exhaust

ARC fmic

nismo fpr

gtr 444cc injectors....about to be installed

splitfire coil packs

power fc .....about to be installed

Blitz ebc (running .9bar)

hoping for some good response and about 190rwkw

hopefully next week to be taken to jim at CRD to put the finishing touches on it. I'll keep you guys posted on how it goes.

also id like to add

the 2 cars are VERY similar in handling!!!

the RB seems to have made little to no difference

Roy : the RB20 180sx is going into the shop on monday :), injectors, wolf 3d management, tune @ 1.3bar

glad to here that some one else realizes that they handle just fine with the rb20 up front.

over here stateside there is a stigma about the rb series being "massively" heavier thus making your handling crap.

i had no problems with my car, and it was tons of fun to drive, especialy sideways.

My R31 GTSR was returned to me on Monday.

Mods are: GTR injectors, walbro pump, custom fuel rail and all new lines. Exhaust, pod and ecu.

The rest is standard, remembering GTSR had a TO3/4E from factory.

I also removed all the butterflies and the spindle from the sandwich plate between head and inlet manifold.

Results were 225rwkw @ 13psi and 170rwkw @ 6-7psi.

correct - dyno runs are only good for comparison if 2 cars are run beside each other

the 2 cars that i compared have both made over 220rwkw on different dynos

i just used the 190rwkw runs as example as thats what they both made a few mins apart on a the same dyno.

Regarding the 220 on another dyno...exactly. There is another thread at the moment stating a certain power level...and from the experiences of a friend his car made 20rwkws more then what his car typically makes...so comparing power figures from different dynos is a waste of time.

A lot of ppl claim massive wheelspin probs at 200rwkws in an R32 GTST, so with 222rwkws and no wheelspin at all in 2nd let alone 3rd, i question my power figure:(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And one last super random thought, I remember when SAUNSW had a dinner with Alan Heaphy, and another with Fred Gibson there was talk of the R32 GTR cast alloy uprights failing in racing, and one of the things Fred did when they had to add weight to the vehicle was taken the failing alloy uprights, and have them made of steel. Does anyone remember back to 1990/1991/1992 and WHAT was failing in the front hubs/uprights?
    • If you truly want to know how the original failed though, was it a factory defect possibly etc, send it off for investigation. Would probably cost a shit tonne.   The ones that you need to win lotto for, unless you have a good reason for that part to be bolt on, I'd probably roll with getting a few small stitch welds carefully put in place as an extra safety factor once everything is all torqued up tight
    • Are you sure? Because I wouldn't necessarily be. Do we even know the material they've made the new uprights from?   Looking at the fractures in the earlier pics, it does to me look like both a twisting, and levering upward action doing the damage, so you're hoping for both compression, and tension. Depending on the bolts, they can stretch (even high grade bolts will) and now you're hoping for the threads themself not to stretch, as if they do, bye bye mating surfaces holding together, hello bolts now going into shear.
    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
×
×
  • Create New...