Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Chris Rogers : They are 6x4's but unlike some Nissans (like an N14 Pulsar where the 6x4" speaker is on a 6" plate that can be simply removed and replaced with 6" speaker) the factory speaker is on a plastic spacer.

You can buy an aftermarket 6x4" speaker but I'd highly reccomend getting 6" to fit. Even better, go for 6" components.

Remove the factory spacer and with a bit of paper/cardboard mark out the area around where the spacer used to be overlapping onto the metal enough to be able to screw it onto the door. Also you need to mark out where you 6" hole will be so it wont touch any metal.

Use MDF about 12mm thick. Also, before you screw it onto the door, spray paint it so moisture doesnt get to it and make it expand.

I dont know every nissan that has the factory spacer cos I havent worked on every model.

But I know the S13 Silvia and most probably the A31 Cefiro will have the factory speaker on a spacer

You also want circle speakers (i.e. 6") for clearest sound because sound travels as waves, expanding in a circular motion from it's source.

Yeah, I've had a bit of a look under mine, plastic spacers and some truly shagged 6x4's...

My question is, ok you make up the mdf mounting panel, and mount your 6 or 6.5" in. Will you have any issues fitting the door card back over it ? Because the reason I thought the speakers were that smaller size was to fit correctly in that space after the door pocket.

Assuming you get "normal" round 6" in.. wouldn't you also be blocking half of the sound because of the shape of the rectangular grill?

My R32 luckily came with some very recent Addzest 6x4 speakers in the front doors... Quite happy with that because it's one less thing I have to bother doing.

But regarding aftermarket 6x4 speakers, I've seem a couple of brands in the states with them, but nothing here. Ebay had some VERY NASTY looking ones so I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole. Best bet is to do what was mentioned above and make your own 6" speaker mounts.

  • 1 month later...
Has anyone put 6"'s in the front of a R32 yet? If so did you have any problems with them fitting behind the door cover?

Yes. No.

I've fit 6"'s just recently. When you make the backing panel you'll need to bevel the top edge to around 45 degrees to make sure it clears properly. If you use 12mm MDF you shouldn't have any trouble with speaker depth.

If you can wait until this time next week I'm going to post a how to with pics once I get them off my friends digicam.

Mark

edit: Thanks go out to Gareth/BADHABIT for enough info to get me started. :)

and just for reference's sake, i just dummied up my dynaudio splits into the doors of my 32 and they'll fit without too many hastles. you'll need to make a custom mount (i'll be doing mine out of mdf + fibreglass) but they'll fit. there aren't all that many sets of 6-7" mids that hang deeper than my dyns so you shouldn't have too many dramas with most split systems on the market.

just gotta get stuck into Sound Deadener now!!!

d

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...