Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I confirmed my 97 gts-t on the 30th of October and paid for it shortly. I have just been advised that the car won’t be on the ship leaving at the end of January, so the soonest it can leave is the end of February. That is four full months my car is sitting out in the open getting trashed by the elements.

Has anyone else had to wait this long? I am looking at 6 months from payment to driving it. I am really pissed I wasn’t given the option of my own container for a little more shipping.

This is a quote from the email I was given before I made payment..

"Your vehicle will be shipped by car carrying ship from Nagoya to Fremantle on the next available vessel. Shipping space is currently very limited, and the Nagoya wharf actually closed all last week as they were full, with no space available for second-hand cars on the current vessel to Fremantle. Nov departure is likely for a Dec arrival, although please be aware that it is possible that shipping could be delayed with an arrival in early January. The supplier will book your vehicle for shipping as soon as possible; the rest will depend on available space."

I don’t see anywhere where it says march arrival?????

What a ****ing joke!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62921-importing-is-a-joke/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 83
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey howsit goin

i had a few probs with my car, but in aus, so i can only imagine how pissed off you'd be waiting for something u havent even seen.

have you ever looked into the option of getting the car shipped by sea container, it only costs about $300ish and you pretty much are guaranteed to get it faster than normal car shipping.

i have a friend who is importing a few cars now, and he went to sea container option, because he said too much ****ing around with the "normal" way and your car is always guaranteed to be thrashed by the warfies.

oh btw, who are you going through atm? prestige?

whoever it is, get onto their asses, (which im sure you have), but keep bugging the ****ers.

lemme know, i can always ask my mate, hes over there now (or could be back by now not sure) wouldnt hurt.

cheers.

I confirmed my 97 gts-t on the 30th of October and paid for it shortly after including pre paid shipping.

Paying for the shipping that early is strange as we do pre paid if room on the boat is usually short but the bill comes a week after the boat has left.

Nagoya is a difficult port for some exporters, with a boat over Christmas cancelled not helping.

3 to 6 months is normal at the moment even for the big boys, it isnt as simple as they make it out to be.

Yeah i've bought my '89 R32 through a Perth company in early november and I am also still waiting on shipping from kawasaki to fremantle. It's really crap, makes it feel like you've ripped off really. Hopefully it will be on the Febuary Vessel.

Pre paid shipping is not required, and if so, this would indicate that you have a space.

you usually pay the shipping on arrival and clearance.

Someone is ripping you off..

If you have a good broker, they will be able to fight to get your cars on.

Last Nov I bought a 300Z and was told no room. After raising this with my broker, suddenly there was room!! Apparently they keep alot of space for larger shippers so a one car shipment is very low priority...

This is what your broker is paid for...to ensure the best possible outcome, not to take your money and then leave it till 'whenever'

Best of luck

Their is a reason that you save money importing you own car, it has it pit falls that are not all highlighted to you, you are told the good points so you spend money.

3 to 6 months just to get the car here is now common place and it wont get better, do you think the "Broker" you use will let you pay for the car when it arrives.

Paying for the shipping that early is strange as we do pre paid if room on the boat is usually short but the bill comes a week after the boat has left.

Nagoya is a difficult port for some exporters, with a boat over Christmas cancelled not helping.

3 to 6 months is normal at the moment even for the big boys, it isnt as simple as they make it out to be.

My invoice said pre paid freight!

I guess this means my new purchase will be on a boat sooner than expected.

I was concern after reading a LOT about people’s major disappointment in shipping delays.

Do roro ships mainly leave port at the end of the months?

My invoice said pre paid freight!

I guess this means my new purchase will be on a boat sooner than expected.

I was concern after reading a LOT about people’s major disappointment in shipping delays.

Do roro ships mainly leave port at the end of the months?

Pre paying can help as long as they pay for it, ask for proof of payment.

This is for K-Line http://www.kline.com.au/Schedule/CarCarrier.aspx

My r32 was bought about 2 weeks ago, and is leaving yokohama port today. I was recommended to pay the extra for container(shared), and it got packed onto a container for immediate shipping. should arrive end of feb *fingers crossed*

its worth the extra $$ .sorry to all who have to wait so long, i waited 4 months for my last car from japan.

I have read on these forums that yokohama is pretty well stocked with a back log of cars... How much extra was the container? I have read a bit into it, but no real comfirmed pricing.

Was Geoff your broker?

My car is getting loaded on Port Kanda bought with the aid of P.Motor Sport. I haven’t heard much about my port. But I got a great supplier who should be able to get it on a boat ASAP.

:cheers:

My r32 was bought about 2 weeks ago, and is leaving yokohama port today. I was recommended to pay the extra for container(shared), and it got packed onto a container for immediate shipping. should arrive end of feb *fingers crossed*

its worth the extra $$ .sorry to all who have to wait so long, i waited 4 months for my last car from japan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...