Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i recently had a system installd by GL pro sound

Got put in 2 12"inch rockford fosgates, splits at the front and 2 rockford amps

Now my boot rattles like hell

GL pro sound tell me u cannot get rid of the rattle

Is there any way i can reduce the rattle or eliminate it totally??

Id appreciate the help,

Thanx :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63241-boot-rattle/
Share on other sites

Check your number plate, that usually makes the most noise.

You can sound deaden the under side of your boot lid. Check all screws/bolts are tight. Check the jack and tool kit, they will make some noise!

If your bootlid rattles, try looking for a thicker rubber seal so you almost haveto forceit shut.

They are wrong, there is alot you can do :D

Hope that helps!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63241-boot-rattle/#findComment-1190470
Share on other sites

$110ish for a sheet of quality sound deadening like serenity max.

while you are at it, buy 2 and deaden both doors.

tighten every nut and bolt you can get a screwdriver or spanner onto.

tighten the jack as previously suggested.

if you are superkeen pull the back seats out and replace the parcel tray with mdf.

and if you are superdooper keen install sound deadening under the back seat.

you should have Nissan Skyline R33 Infiniti after all this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63241-boot-rattle/#findComment-1192595
Share on other sites

glps really said you can't do anything to fix the rattles???!!!! surely not. boot rattles are pretty much par for the course with a decent system w/o sound deadening in most cars and i'd imagine most shops are well aware of this.

whats rattling (if is the bootlid) is the frame. get some non-acitic silicone (otherwise it'll corrode) and run a bead between the outer "skin" and the framing. go nuts and do it properly. what you want to achieve is to isolate the two from each other. then you want to cover the whole of your bootlid underside in a good quality sound deadener (g-spot is the one to go with) and re-carpet it.

if you don't want to do it yourself, you should have a chat to marty @ fhrx studios. he's on these forums and based in sydney. shoot him a pm. he's deadened many a japper (inc his own s15) and knows the ins and outs.

d

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63241-boot-rattle/#findComment-1203758
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

GL Pro Sould are pros, i carnt beleive they told you that .. yes as everyone has told you sound deaden everything .. you used to be able to buy this stuff called SOUND OFF professional damping for high performance car audio, you could buy this stuff in brush on and in sheets. You need to do the inside of your rear quarter panels and the boot lid, run some seam sealer in all the seams of the re-enforcements on you boot lid and either brush the deadner on the whold underside of your boot or cut out a sound deadner sheet and glue it on .. i would recomend using the brush on stuff instead of the matting.. its amazing what a difference it makes ..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63241-boot-rattle/#findComment-1269262
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm not normally one for posting random videos, but I thought we'd all appreciate the honesty about how broken our cars tend to be lol. Genuine skyline life here.   
    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
×
×
  • Create New...