Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey mate.

Best thing to do is take out the plastic part and then head off down to your local hardware store. Pick up some thick plastic or acrylic. Then use the old coil cover as a template. Just make the back section were the igniter pack mounts into.

Or you can cut that back section off and mount that little bit of the original back on with your igniter pack on it. (Quick and easy. Hacksaw and about 10 mins work - What I have done)

Take it easy

I just used a thin strip of stainless steel, cut it with a hacksaw and bent it over the corner of the wall then drilled a couple of holes. you will need to find the appropriate screws to use in the existing holes as the allen key ones are too long.

I reckon it looks nice and is very strong.

Also, stainless is a better insulator than aluminium etc.

umm don't just leave it hanging there....I remember seeing a car catch fire when the plug cam loose and it landed on the turbo....

Adrian....nos lines.... :slap:

Or, another out there idea....how about keeping the spark plug cover like Mr Nissan suggests?

umm don't just leave it hanging there....I remember seeing a car catch fire when the plug cam loose and it landed on the turbo....

Adrian....nos lines.... :slap:

Or, another out there idea....how about keeping the spark plug cover like Mr Nissan suggests?

mr nissan might be onto a good thing :(

Might be, but I don't think Mr Nissan intended the temperatures to be that hot in the spark plug covers !!

I used a zip tie :D

yes interesting point and lots of people have taken off coil pack covers. but has anyone ever measured the temp in there?

I heard a suggestion once that there is actually quite a good airflow from the front to the back when the engine is running.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...