Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

they are not ball bearing. they are f$#king big. they will not come onto boost until quite late in the rev range (unless you have a 3 litre RB26 for example). but when the do hit boost it'll be one hell of a ride... for the A/R and wheel sizes type T88-H 34D into google.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63398-greddy-t88-h-34d/#findComment-1192765
Share on other sites

Yeah my car is a 5.7 litre stroker i posted it here cause you guys know more about turbos than commodore people. So should i see boost around 3500rpm it is a heavily worked engine makes 315hp at the wheels as it is

Im also lookin at another garret turbo it has a 0.76 front and a 1.08 rear it doesnt have a model number would this be similar to the T88 i dont really kow that muchabout the numbers and stuff

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63398-greddy-t88-h-34d/#findComment-1192924
Share on other sites

lol...that would be a rb30 then..not a 3 lt rb26....:headspin:

the reason I said "3 litre RB26" is so people understand that I'm talking about a GTR engine, modified to 3 litre capacity, not a RB30 commodore motor which has crap heads....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63398-greddy-t88-h-34d/#findComment-1193309
Share on other sites

Heavily worked?

Forgive me if I am wrong but dont the 5.7litre comordores have about 300rwhp as standard?

The fact that he's said 5.7litre stroker leads me to believe he's talking about an older 5 litre holden V8 (ie. not a 5.7 LS1) that has been stroked to make it 5.7.

To answer the actual question, I really don't know that a T88 would suit your application. What's the max rev limit? how much power do you want from it? I reckon you might be better off with a set of twins. a nice little T28 of some kind per bank would be good. Maybe even a twin HKS GTRS set-up... It will give you a chance to beat some GTRs.... (in a straight line anyway...) ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63398-greddy-t88-h-34d/#findComment-1193315
Share on other sites

Fitting the twins together in the engine bay is going to be real hard as it is a small engine bay. Could you recomend another single turbo to use.

Yeah it is an older 308 stroked to 355 and yes it is heavily worked everything is forged blueprinted balanced best of everything you can by for that motor the only reason it makes not much power is because it runs low compression and a small cam to prepare for forced induction

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63398-greddy-t88-h-34d/#findComment-1193504
Share on other sites

Ohh, more details:) As a joke i looked at what it would cost to build a stroked 304/355 engien with alloy efi heads, twin throttle inlet with some nice internals...the price scared me when you consider you can get a Nascar crate engine for 15k with good hp:)

Id be inclined to go with a big centrifugal blower, especially if the engine bay is tight. You can stick with some nice pipes, much lower engine bay temps, can still run intercooler, and the Vortex blowers work wonders:)

If it must be turbo then id say stick with singles set forward in the engine bay, the only way you will get a big single in there is with it mounted really low in which case the oil return, manifolding will still be a nightmare, or say goodbye to a bonnet and mount it high and proud, perhaps throw a hornet scoop over it:)

But small singles, they will also work better with more crude log manifolds:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63398-greddy-t88-h-34d/#findComment-1193585
Share on other sites

in my opinion a supercharger is a better option on such a big engine, the reason for this is to make instant power you need lots of torque downlow, and a t88 doesnt make much torque below 5 grand, for this reason alone, id go with a supercharger, as roy stated a good centrifugal supercharger should provide a good torque band between 2 grand and onwards, but whatever you choose good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63398-greddy-t88-h-34d/#findComment-1193727
Share on other sites

You'd be better off getting a ball or plain bearing Garrett turbo, the lack of exhaust housings sizes in the Trust range limit their applications. You might find you need an exhaust housing larger than what they offer, and both 1) buying a larger housing and 2) having one available are two big reasons why I'd skip out on the Trust unit.

Don't get me wrong, great turbos that make great power.... but they are aimed at engines with alot lower capacity than that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63398-greddy-t88-h-34d/#findComment-1193979
Share on other sites

in my opinion a supercharger is a better option on such a big engine, the reason for this is to make instant power you need lots of torque downlow, ..id go with a supercharger, as roy stated a good centrifugal supercharger should provide a good torque band between 2 grand  and onwards, but whatever you choose good luck

centrifugal blowers are similar to that of turbos... as they are not "instant power" as they spool kinda like a turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63398-greddy-t88-h-34d/#findComment-1194105
Share on other sites

daredevil,

I think the turbo idea is a good one. The blowers of any kind are not a patch on a good turbo setup.

1,000hp is more than the 308 is going to live with for vey long at all. I'd be aiming at a turbo to deliver around 600 engine hp. This way your going to be able to get excellent response with very minimal lag.

As others have mentioned stick with the garret turbo's, more options to get the right fit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63398-greddy-t88-h-34d/#findComment-1194722
Share on other sites

just agreeing with R31Nismoid, i think a vs trim Vortech blower would be the best option for you from CAPA Australia. They work very similar to turbo's and they are very small package for easy installation. You also wont have as much heat within a confined engine bay....but they are expensive

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63398-greddy-t88-h-34d/#findComment-1194918
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...