Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am running GT-RS turbines on my stock RB26. My turbos would be a fair bit bigger than a single GT3540.

I was originally running standard cams with vernier cam gears. I found that the best response was acheived with 0 degree timing for both inlet and exhaust. With this setup, the best I could achieve was 1.3 bar at about 5500-5600RPM.

I then dropped in a set of PONCAM type B cams (still running at 0 degrees in and ex). I now have 1.4 bar at about 5200RPM.

With the cams, I have definately lost a bit of power under about 3500RPM, but 4500-5000RPM, seems to be a bit better and MUCH better from 5000-8000RPM.

I reckon just spend the money on the cams and don't bother with the gears.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63529-camscam-gears-help-please/
Share on other sites

cams as boost response

engine/turbo: rb26/ gt3540 (xr6t turbo)

response: comes on about 4000rpm and relly nails you at 5000rpm

basically ive spoken to a few peopl and heard a few things in regards to cams and cam gears

lots of people have said cam gears to bring it on earlier ($500)

but with cams there has been mixed oppinion ($990)

basically im looking at a set of tomie poncams spec b( say they bring one large turbos earlier)

so basically anyone willing to confuse me more please do

should i just get the pon cams

or should i just get the cam gears

or should i get both

help please

car currently makes 270rwkw at 1 bar(stock computer stock injectors)

note: there is a power fc and injectors inthe wings as well to tkae ful advantage of the cams

pete

Get both... im only running 2530's but the difference the cams made was amazing. Power seemed alot stronger through the whole rev range, and response was increased quite alot too. Definately the best bang for your buck mod I have ever made to the car. I got Tomei Poncam B's (260 in/ex) and Tomei cam gears.

freaky i start the thread and im the third post

so sound like tomi brings it on abit more

a proper tune would probably help to

got a mines standard computer tune now so ill see if that make a diffrence tonight

yea baby

The cams definately bring it on a bit quicker...just don't expect a miracle.

A stroker kit or even 87mm bore and higher comp would make a difference too.

I am running GT-RS turbines on my stock RB26. My turbos would be a fair bit bigger than a single GT3540.  

I was originally running standard cams with vernier cam gears. I found that the best response was acheived with 0 degree timing for both inlet and exhaust. With this setup, the best I could achieve was 1.3 bar at about 5500-5600RPM.

I then dropped in a set of PONCAM type B cams (still running at 0 degrees in and ex). I now have 1.4 bar at about 5200RPM.

With the cams, I have definately lost a bit of power under about 3500RPM, but 4500-5000RPM, seems to be a bit better and MUCH better from 5000-8000RPM.

I reckon just spend the money on the cams and don't bother with the gears.

Great info Mik, there is a distinct lack of info on cam upgrades on this forum so thanks.

Do you have dyno charts showing the difference between the stock and Tomei cams? If not do you know the numbers.

The Tomei website say themselves that with Poncams there is no need for cam gears with Poncams as they optimised them at 0°/0° timing.

fatz, the fact is, you've got a big mother of a turbo with a 1.06 A/R exhaust housing and there is bugger all you can do to bring the turbo on earlier.

You'd be better off focusing on spreading power across the top end to give as broad a power band as possible, much easier to do than trying to beat the laws of physics. Cams would prob be the best way as the other guys have said, and just keep the revs up.

I currently have stock cams with exhaust only adjustable cam gear but I wanted to get more top end and a broader spread of power. It worked with 10rwkW more but a far better feel up top with more power overall.

I now have a set of Tomei Poncams for my RB25DET that I haven't installed and I am looking to get more grunt but more importantly get a broader spread of power. The website says it will help spool up a bigger bolt on turbo but I'm not sure the effect is gonna be that signifincant, I think from maybe 3200rpm there will be a difference up to I hope 7500rpm.

The Tomei website say themselves that with Poncams there is no need for cam gears with Poncams as they optimised them at 0°/0° timing.

From my limited understanding, thats true for GTST but the RB26 cams benefit from adjustable cam gears.

Unfortunately, I don't have before and after dyno plots, because most of my tuning has been done on the road.

The only reason we did the final tune (after the cams) on the road was because it was getting very hard to tune the top end on the street!

The dyno we used is pretty pessamistic (260kw@4 wheels) was good enough for a 120mph trap speed in a series 3 R33 GTR.

With a bit more tuning, the car now makes 290kw on this dyno. I haven't had a chance to run it at the drags yet.

Here are a few numbers:

RPM BOOST(PSI) POWER(kw) TORQUE(nm)

4200 10 114 374

4500 11.4 132 410

4700 13.8 158 470

4900 16.1 185 527

5200 19.3 230 614

5300 20 242 628

5800 19.7 253 608

6500 19.6 281 600

I have a reasonable spread of torque now. Above 595nm between 5100 and 7500RPM

I am hoping to fix the lack of Cam info on these forums over the next few months. Wiht my previous engine (SR20) I ran PONACAM's and I measured a nice imporvement over the whole rnage with GTech Pro Comp.. I will be doing the saema long with Desktop Dyno simulations.. but I will be going with a set of low duration high lift PROCAM's on my RB26. Hopefully I can prove that the extra dollars you pay for Tomei equipment is worth it in the mid range..

I don't know how mnay people will benefit from it, but I know that my work on the SR20, made a lot of interest in the SilviaWA forums.. I enjoyed the PONCAM's, but I will be going more 'insane' with the RB26 as I live on strange roads and I believe that mid range torque hold the key to fun up heere, so I am lookinf gor as much lift as I can get..

Hoping to help......

From my limited understanding, thats true for GTST but the RB26 cams benefit from adjustable cam gears.

From reading SydneyKid's posts about Tomei Poncams, that's my understanding too. RB25DET Poncams are usually spot on, whereas RB26 Poncams definately require adjustment. IIRC SydneyKid recommends camgears for both regardless (because no two engines are alike).

LW.

Well I am more keen on lift then duration, so I am more inclined to take the 260 deg in/ex with 10.85mm lift, of course this also means that I ahve to change to solid lifter, valve springs, retainers as well as my base diameter changing.. I will also be fitting a metal head gasket, Kevlar timing belt, oil restricter and other associated guff at the same time.

Uncomplicated, simplistic view on cams..

An increase in Lift will give mid range and good strong torque, where as increase in duration will create more power but higher in the rev range, generally at the sacrifice of low rpm power and stability..

If you want to know more, I suggest research, and also the program Desktop Dyno.. Create an RB engine block from details widely available and then swap different cam profiles in and see what happens, I did this for my SR20 and I put around 40 or so different cam profiles into the program so that I could tell what sort of Torque and Power curves I coule expect.. From this, along with financial constraints and nto wanting to remove the head, I chose the Tomei PONCAM...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...