Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was pretty set on a GCG Highflow for my GTT but a few people have posted unhappiness with them. It hasn't completely put me off but it made me think of alternatives.

Then I wanted a GT-RS but they are on the expensive side and not always making the power I was expecting from them.

Then I found out about this horsepowerinabox turbo:

1. GT30 with Nissan exhaust housing which is around 0.63 AR.

2. 0.7 compressor cover

3. 56 trim

4. 2.25/3.00 wheel diameter

5. apparently good for 500 horsies of power

6. 55 lb/min ??? not sure on this part.

Someone mentioned 240rwkw on a thread where I brought it up. I've also heard 280rwkw both on RB25's but I've no idea about what other mods were done.

My question is, is the 0.63 exhaust housing going to make this a light switch kind of turbo?

Does anyone have any experience or knowledge about this turbo they can pass on to me?

What kind of power levels have been achieved?

Driveability?

Where abouts would you see 1 bar of boost? I've heard 3-3500 but...

Anything else you think I should know?

Thanks.

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ive got no idea, but a thing to remember when looking at A/Rs is its a ratio. So you can have a big mother of a turbine with a small A/R of say 0.53. When you consider the radius can be somehting like 40mm (to clear the turbine wheel) then the area is going to be an equally large number, so the thing will still flow plenty of air...and require plenty of air to accelerate the turbine?!?!

So with the 0.63 exhaust housing, consider the turbine size...like i said i have no experience so no real idea, but a GT35 turbo with a 0.63 A/R exhaust housing isnt going to come on boost in a real hurry:)

I was going to put one of them on mine, (but will wait till i have more money) I was also going to use the .83 , so the .63 should have good response, I was also going to be using a haltec aftermarcket comp

This was all coming from GCG for a really good price

So what's the disadvantage of a small exhaust AR? If small gives better response, what's the trade off?

Its ability to flow exhaust gasses at high RPM. You'll find the boost taper off in the upper rev range on YOUR motor.

Be great off the line though!

i have a gcg high flow and can say nothing bad about it at all ..it comes on boost at 3000 rpm, at 13 psi, and holds 13 psi all the way to redline ...

what more could you want ...

13 psi gives me 240kw on rb25det, just with exhaust, fmic and fuel system ...

cheers

how about the new gt3071r ,apparently better responce than the gt30 (i had even heard better than the gtrs but only read a couple of thing on them)  

just an idea

what GT30? be more specific.. GT3071R is just HKS making there money for doing F U C K all like import brokers.

They are all garret turbo's , garret now offer mixtures of exhaust housings and compressor covers etc.

Small A/R will drop off at high RPM and come on earlier. IMO .63 A/R is crap. 0.84 A/R is a great exhaust housing for a RB25DET.

:rofl:

what GT30? be more specific.. GT3071R is just HKS making there money for doing F U C K all like import brokers.

They are all garret turbo's , garret now offer mixtures of exhaust housings and compressor covers etc.

Small A/R will drop off at high RPM and come on earlier. IMO .63 A/R is crap.  0.84 A/R is a great exhaust housing for a RB25DET.  

:rofl:

The GT3071R is not HKS but a new Garrett design.

Read here :http://www.atpturbo.com/

The GT3071R is not HKS but a new Garrett design.

Read here :http://www.atpturbo.com/

Yes, but it is also another market strat .

ATP is NOT GARRET.

GARRET IS GARRET.

These are all market strats. When you build a turbo you say can i have a GT30 with 60mm compressor wheel, ptrim exhaust wheel, 1.15 rear etc etc.

There is allot more then just " HKS GT2530 "

That doesnt explain ANYTHING.

what GT30? be more specific.. GT3071R is just HKS making there money for doing F U C K all like import brokers.

They are all garret turbo's , garret now offer mixtures of exhaust housings and compressor covers etc.

Small A/R will drop off at high RPM and come on earlier. IMO .63 A/R is crap.  0.84 A/R is a great exhaust housing for a RB25DET.  

:)

well mate you might want to know the turbo your talking about before voice an opinion to say

GT3071R is just HKS making there money for doing F U C K all like import brokers.

well that just stupid

cos hks dont make it or have anything to do with it :Oops:

and whats with the remote control car signature, cant get pic of a real one

well mate you might want to know the turbo your talking about before voice an opinion to say

 

well that just stupid

cos hks dont make it or have anything to do with it :Oops:

and whats with the remote control car signature, cant get pic of a real one

Looks like you dont know much about motorsport.

Looks like you dont know much about motorsport.

well lets have a look at the car with antennas on the roof and while we are looking up at it ,it still does cut the line of site off to people hipps in ther back ground :Oops:

me confused if i looked my car from below in front of it i dont think i could see peoples hipps in the background above it ,strange dont you think

So what's the disadvantage of a small exhaust AR?  If small gives better response, what's the trade off?

You have to consider the ampount of air the engine can consume. So if you throw a small A/R exhaust housing on your big compressor then the thing will start to flow some srious cfm early in the rev range. Sounds good? But problem is for a given rpm the engine may not be able to consume that airlfow do the engine is well and truly eign supplied air it cant consume which leaves the poor old turbo surgiing.

So dont worry about choking up the top end, with too small and exhaust A/R on a big tubo you wont ever make it to 7,000rpm:(

GT30 with 0.63 a/r exhaust housing come on like a light switch??? YES very much so. You will find it very hard to get off the line in the first few gears with that small housing and you will be in wheel spin city, and then have no power high up in the rev range. And if it raining forget about driving your car.

My GT30 with 0.86 rear and 0.70 front housing (RB25 internally stock) comes on around 1 bar at 4000rpm and makes power all the way to 7500rpm, and bounces off the rev limiter in every gear quite easily, and is easy to drive around normally and come on power nicely without to much wheel spin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...