Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm in the market for some new rears *heaven knows why?*

Just like some feedback on what tyres you all have on and are you happy with their grippiness (if there is such a word)?

Been quoted ~$420ea for Dunlop Direzza's DZ101's which i'm told is the "best money can buy" and ~$340ea for Toyo TPG Trampio's in 255/40/17 size. Obviously a bit of range there so want to see what every one else is using.

Cheers!

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63650-what-tyres-are-you-running/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

potenza DAGG.... Yummmmmmm 255/40/17

have no idea how much they would cost plus they came from Japan, no Oz companies made by the looks of things..... but yeah a lot happy than my g-grid i used to have plus the old potenzas....

if ya see any floating around try and grab em.... well i like em anyway:-)

I got a set of Toyo Trampios for $1100 from tyrepower in port kennedy

2x 245x40x18

2x 265x35x18

Tyres are pretty good and service there from the boys are great. Im guessing something in 17inch would be a bit cheaper than that. My personal experience is that tyre places rip people off whereever they can. You get a quote for the exact same tyre down the road for $80 more.

Kuhmo Ecsta Supra 235/45R17's on the front

Kuhmo Ecsta 711 255/40R17's on the rear...

the Supra's are nice, lasted a fair while and grip nicely...

the 711's.... well.. they suck.

i washed my rims perfectly spotless last night, drove around a little bit last night (absolutely no wheel spin or anything) and you can see powdered rubber sitting in the spokes of my rim(rear rims only), they wear that quick its not funny...

going to try Nankang NS2's next i think, mate has them on his wrx and they handle nice

I used to run Maxis 265/35R18's on the rear

and Maxis 235/40R18's on the front. For a pretty unknown(?) and cheapish tyre they had wicked grip on both wet and dry road. Cost about $430ish for the 265's not sure on the 235's maybe $380ish. But with me only running about 250rwhp and you running what now 350rwhp might make a difference.

Z rated means they are high speed rated, over 160km/h so thats what you need on a tyre.

don't get GT Radial Champiro's hard as rocks and shit in th wet, but hey if you want burnout material they will go on for a while but i wish i never got them.

Falkens are always mentioned as a great all round tyre.

Sherriff,

I just put a pair of the Ventus 104's on the 32 a month ago.. pretty DAMN GOOD tyre for the price.

They are up there with S03's in the dry and are about 150$ cheaper per tyre so you can't go wrong.

I havent tried the 104's in the wet yet. S03's have been the best tyre ive used in both the wet and dry.

Shaun

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...