Jump to content
SAU Community

WRX Club - Rnd 2 - Phillip Island - March 12


Recommended Posts

The GTT/GTST time to beat is Geoff/Adz and me all stuck at 1:58s. We should have all done a litle better with the stickies on though:( Adz had fuel surge, i was dropping back to 5 cylinders and had an engine miss and Geoff was beating the tyres up with worn std sups/settings.

My guess on street tyres the time to beat for thre GTT/GTST guys will be a 1:58 and for the semi guys a 1:55.

  • Replies 290
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sounds like Geoff and I WERE on a fairly equal footing before the TT upgrade.....hehehe Roy should be interesting chasing 1:58's on my street tyres and worn suspn. Mental note - take spare pair of undies for turn 1!

ant 2:00 is the stock tyre best for me. i'm entered and should have lotsa pretty stuff today:D

shocks are replaced, new front gtr bar and wing, new stock diff and hoping for close to 280rwkw.....maybe more.

Nice!!

Will you be running that at the track with stock internals?

You bet ya sweet peppy I will be running that. Will be running 10L of race fuel in the tank just for that little extra protection however (no timing advances or power increases with the fuel - just using for safety margin).

And yeah guys Phillip Island is a track where you will continue to take time off of your PB's for the first several times you go at least as it take so long to gain the confidence (grow the wang!) to get the best out of that track. I think from memory the difference from my best time on my first day there and my 4th day there was 8 secs (1.57 - 1.49). Pretty much took 2secs off every visit.

And you will continue to take time off...well at least i do. It may come down to a matter of tenths, but even little old Wakefield after dozens of visits i found myself going a little bit quicker, be it from out braking myself, taking a different line using a different gear/shift point because of traffic.

And INASNT, your weak:)

I know of several RB25s that are internally stock that have done plenty of track days with more power then you with no prob. Bets examples are two other white R33s that are vvery similar to yours. Merli in his old R33 with HKS3040 and 280rwkws, Doughboy with his 2530/T51 Kai/3040 with between 220-280rwkws. Merlis car especially saw at least 5-6 days that i also attended. Then you have to consider the days at Eastern Creek where i dodnt go, plus the days he did at Wakefield:thumbsup:

If im going to run 1.3bar in my thing with whatever power it gets tuned for, then whats your excuse:)

And you will continue to take time off...well at least i do. It may come down to a matter of tenths, but even little old Wakefield after dozens of visits i found myself going a little bit quicker, be it from out braking myself, taking a different line using a different gear/shift point because of traffic.

And INASNT, your weak:)  

I know of several RB25s that are internally stock that have done plenty of track days with more power then you with no prob. Bets examples are two other white R33s that are vvery similar to yours.  Merli in his old R33 with HKS3040 and 280rwkws, Doughboy with his 2530/T51 Kai/3040 with between 220-280rwkws.   Merlis car especially saw at least 5-6 days that i also attended. Then you have to consider the days at Eastern Creek where i dodnt go, plus the days he did at Wakefield:thumbsup:  

If im going to run 1.3bar in my thing with whatever power it gets tuned for, then whats your excuse:)

Well I will have to play with my timing and boost setting then since everyone else has up the anti since the last track day i went to, coz my timing is very conservative at the moment and i was only running 1 bar at sandown.

If i blows can i blame you then roy? :rofl:

Ignore Roy he is a serial RB20 killa. Run what's comfortable 'cos when your engine goes it's bound to do it big time at that power.

Well the bits are all coming together.....this might just happen. TT has to equal twice the fun.

I remember doing a 2:08 in the wet at the HSV day (edit: actually it was the PIARC track weekend) taking the high line thru turn 1. Taught me heaps about my lines in one session and I was pumped making the lap stick. All experimentation is good but my yucky rear shocks would have been suicide to go really hard through turn 1.

I will stand by my finding too that a set of MOMO carbon race pedals took 3 seconds off my previous best. Not just rice factor.....Put simply the ability to heel/toe smoothly is a huge benefit.

Denham - Im using the 103 from Rigoli. The advantage of that stuff (compared to the others such as the 110) is that you don't need a log book or anything like that to purchase it.

As I stated earlier it's being used just for some safety rather than performance. As Benno said - for $60 for the day (10L) it's the best insurance you can buy.

But speaking of this fuel - Jack has my drum and I haven't heard if he's actually coming down for sure to this event or not yet. If you read this Jack can you let me know what your intensions are cause if you aint coming I will have to get my drum from you before hand.

Denham, I understand Snowie got 260awkw so usually GTR's get another 30-40 in rw mode. With the higher compression I'll make more specific power at the same boost of 1.2 bar max. The injectors (440) will deliver enough I think and the bottom end is certainly strong enough so it's worth a try.

Geoff - before you go destroying anything be aware that my car was 260RWKW's - i.e. no front drive shaft in (as neither Ice nor Racepace have a 4WD dyno.)

So I wasnt making that power at all 4 wheels.

yeah i think you'll have trouble making 300rwkw... those injectors are same size as GTR... andrew was running towards the max of his fuel system at about 260rwkw, the same as me...

so your goal would probably be around 250rwkw?

Geoff, are you using the rb25 head or have you upgraded to the rb26 head?

There is no way that the same power could be extracted from a std 25 head, when compared to a std 26 head, at the same boost level.

Also are the R34 GTR turbo's ceramic (exhaust)? If so this will restrict you on boost.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...