Jump to content
SAU Community

WRX Club - Rnd 2 - Phillip Island - March 12


Recommended Posts

woop.

when i said cheap, i meant discounted. i had bendix ultimates put on the front back in october; but for the price my mechanic would charge, i figured i use the money to get some rb74 and install with some help.

spent this afternoon looking up tyres. couldnt find any infos about re55. but for $300+ per tyre, may as well just replace the front two azenis for half that kind of money.

btw, im looking at where to get the steel cable bonnet restraints. they look a lot easier to use than tying a gordian knott out of nylon ribbon. means i can let the motor idle down with the bonnet up, and not burn meself.

got me accomodation sorted. still need to get my extinguisher inspected (monday), luckily i got monday & friday off. should have the bases covered.

  • Replies 290
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks for the advice. I don't have any expectations to be able to keep up with anyone at this point, just want to learn how to drive a Skyline and bring it home all in one piece.

Snowman has bigger issues other than me, namely, Frank in his R33GTR. Franks car is running the same power and last time he was at the Island he cracked 1.47s. This time I get the impression from him he's going to go better again.

We may be in for a classic battle between the two of them with both quoting to aim for 1.46s.

wwwrxxx - good to see your having a go with the GTR even though you've only had it for a week.... There is no pressure to compete against the 'other' guys, they've been driving a while with the same car....

I'll be out there chugging along, as it will be my second time on a track, and have quite a bit to learn b4 I get to Frank/Andrew's standard...

Last thing I want to do is put pressure on myself to go as fast as them and damage the car...

Just to let you know I'm running the same power as these guys (330rwkws), but definetly not the same times....

I was at the Calder track day, the silver R33 GTR that was parked next to Franks for most of the day....

Looking forward to Saturday!!!!!!!!!!!!

Frank has a few more things done to his car than Andrew as well i belive, bigger brakes, and some diff work...

Your right, Frank's got AP six pots, modified transfer case/diffs, and better suspension setup....

Although Andrew is not that far off the pace, I think it was 3 sec at Calder...

Frank WILL go down at PI. It will probably be the only track this year I will have a chance though.

Because consider Franks PB is currently 1.47.7 and mine is 1.49.3 (1.4s diff) - but now I will be going from 250rwkw's to 325rwkw's where as Franks' car is the same. And my car has a whole lot more stickers than Franks which counts for a bit down there.

At this track the brakes are not so much of an issue. And I think Franks suspension/diff set-up is better suited to the lower speed stuff which is why is he so much faster at Calder and Sandown. But either way I think this will be a pretty close contest.

Al - to cover your question RE: Ant and Standard Class. It was decided that 2 things could put you into Modified. 1 - Sticky tyres (So Aaron you in Modified AWD!) and 2- Turbo upgrades WITH approapriate fuel system modifications. So whilst Ant has high flowed his turbo - he is still (as far as I am aware from discussions with him) running the stock fuel system (fuel pump and injectors). So because he also runs normal tyres he is still in Standard Class. ECU's suspension, brakes etc were all free in Standard Class.

Yeah Al - Snowie is spot on. From my understanding you need either stickies or upgraded injectors to run in the mod class. I am running an upgraded fuel pump but my injectors are the std size. In my opinion the biggest limitation in upgrading power are the injectors. You can increase the turbo size, you can use a performance pump etc etc but without the bigger injectors the gtsts are limited to approx 200-250rwkw (unless of course you get your car tuned by a WA specialist :D )

I will be putting on RE55's just from a safety point of view. My current tyres are not very good, if I am spending money on new tyres for the track I will get high quality. Does this mean I will be put in the modified class? This is my first time on the track and the engine is completely standard, I would prefer to be in standard class. In the end I don't mind either way, if I am put in modified due to tyres I will just be at the back going at my own pace anyway.

Al - to cover your question RE: Ant and Standard Class. It was decided that 2 things could put you into Modified. 1 - Sticky tyres (So Aaron you in Modified AWD!) and 2- Turbo upgrades WITH approapriate fuel system modifications. So whilst Ant has high flowed his turbo - he is still (as far as I am aware from discussions with him) running the stock fuel system (fuel pump and injectors). So because he also runs normal tyres he is still in Standard Class. ECU's suspension, brakes etc were all free in Standard Class.

Wayne......you are putting on RE55's FOR SAFETY???? How do you figure that?? If you read thru the track threads or do a search most people say stay away from stickies until you've done a few track sessions. Reason for that is you carry a lot more corner speed and the tyres give you no warning before letting go. Unless your current tyres are down to the markers or are retreads I'd say stick with them.......

Sorry, I have given the wrong impression, this is my first time at PI, I have previously driven at winton, calder and sandown and do have track experience.

Wayne......you are putting on RE55's FOR SAFETY????  How do you figure that?? If you read thru the track threads or do a search most people say stay away from stickies until you've done a few track sessions.  Reason for that is you carry a lot more corner speed and the tyres give you no warning before letting go.  Unless your current tyres are down to the markers or are retreads I'd say stick with them.......

Wayne: when they are talking about classes - they dont mean the 'group' that is out on the track, you get grouped randomly i think by the track day organisers, the class doesn't seem to have any effect on which group you are in, you may end up on the track with a bunch of mx5's or may end up on the track with race WRX's and GTR's....

Its a bit silly, i think with the masarati club they ask what times you expect to run and try to group the faster cars together and slower cars together etc...

Don't stress about the class your in, its only for our internal club championship.

And to also make you feel better the Ice Supra has withdrawn so you only have to compete against Roy, Geoff and Denham (Gareth still unknown) - and 2 of them are a big show of catching on fire anyways and the others have had less track experience than you.

But yes the Classes are just for internal competition and are 99% for fun.

Should be taking corners a tad better now. Might have something to do with widening the track by about 1.5" and running 8" wide rims.... and some better rubber....

I'll be nipping at the heals of you GTS-t's

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...