Jump to content
SAU Community

WRX Club - Rnd 2 - Phillip Island - March 12


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 290
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So far the offical list contains the following people:

Snowman

heartbrkr

Roy

Ant95

pontiff

Since the list was posted (Friday night) ferni and Scotsman have sent in forms (that I know of)

It needs new turbo gasket, new EBC and a re-tune. If i was having a good monring at work i would have bought some brakes which would not have been fitted in time...but work sux again right now and i want all the money i can get in the bank. The projects im on wont die:(

Provided Ben can tune my car late this week, early next week and he doesnt find any problems then i should be ok. I want the susp to be given the once over as well as there is a knockign noise int he front right that is a bit unsettling:(

Ok have started an accomadation thread since it looks like it may become a logistical nightmare if we leave it too late.

If your planning to stay on Phillip Island between 11th - 14th post your details here.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...802#post1230802

Geoff will be there denham (I presumre) and also Anthony (heartbrkr) has one too - although to be very different his is a stock Auto!

sweet, what power u running now andrew? Nige told me ages ago you were getting a GT30 a bit bigger than mine, but that was back when u busted ur tranny.

Yeah denham looks like the R33 gtsts are in short supply for PI....I believe (according to my understanding) you should be running in the modified class (aftermarket inj + turbo) and I'm running in the std class but if you are still running street tyres it might be a close on track battle :)

Yeah denham looks like the R33 gtsts are in short supply for PI....I believe (according to my understanding) you should be running in the modified class (aftermarket inj + turbo) and I'm running in the std class but if you are still running street tyres it might be a close on track battle :)

r u using cheater tyres?

Denham......nah mate still on the cr@p (and I MEAN cr@p!!) street tyres. Had a look at them after Calder and theres a lot of wear on the insides of the tyres.....means my SFA traction has gotten worse :)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...