Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey folks,

My motor blew (Big end) on Monday evening leaving the carpark at work doing about 5-10 kms per hour.

I wasn't going to post but I have received alot of calls, PM's and alot of SMS's re the destruction of my RB26dett. Some of you I have spoken with and others have just heard through our network

What caused it I dont know, maybe the history of the vehicle in Japan. I'll be trying to find out more when it's eventually pulled out and dissasembled.

I was extremely thorough prior to purchase and treated her very well since I bought her 3 months back. So I'm a little baffled.

But Sometimes Sh!t just happens, You get over it.

:wavey:

Thanks for your kind offers of lifts to work etc...I'll holler if I'm stuck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64015-big-end-blown-big-buck-rb26-debt/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Like a said to you this morning, "thats fcuked" on a lighter side maybe you should have drove it like i drive mine. Oh hang on mine has been on and off the road more times then I change my undies. lol.

But sorry to hear richard.

if u want some help workin on it id love to help!!!

im with gus, if you need anything, holla at me

well this weeks been pretty gay, possible cancellation of the cruise and one of the nicest GTR's in ACT is now off the road... WTF?! why is it now that the sh!t hits the fans?

Sinista32

Could be time to slot in an N1 or Newish R34 RB26

Not shur what type of computer ya running and the compatablity of parts but it could be good/better value for money than a simple rebuild

Smaller Labour costs

Get the car back quicker

Dead engine out

Good engine in...

(gestimate... 2 weeks )

Or

Dead engine out

Rebuild engine

Good engine back in

Appropiate Engine Run-in (various reves- various gears)

(gestimate 4 weeks)

Just something to think bout!

Some guy posted up an R34 or N1 engine look into it.

Bad luck

When you're taking the bottom end apart, don't have any alcohol around, you don't want to make any mistakes there :)

At least pull the motor out and take it apart. Have a look see how much damage you've done. You'll also be able to get a good idea about the condition of the whole motor (provided you've got the right tools) - and with these things information is power - make a decision based on that.

Keep in mind, if you buy a second hand engine, you'll be buying someone elses problems, and quite possibly the same thing will happen again. Unless you are 100% sure you've got a good motor its not really worth it long term - you're better off rebuilding what you have at least you know it is sound.

Just my experiences :P

PS was that Mark from QLDs old car?

will miss seeing sinista on the streets.......and the offer still stands if you want to get behind the big thumping V8, complete with bundy stickers, and of course the huge bullbar, which really attracts the chicks!!! Let me know if you want the keys to this good old aussie icon.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thank you, 100% the intent. New coils were due and the 17" sixers look/feel loads better than the stock wheels. The aero options are so spot on.   Thanks for the warm welcome, all!
    • 98 r34 gtt Been rocking my latest setup and car running like never before. Have put a good 200 miles on it since all the latest changes and additions. everything is dialed in and have been driving it a bunch.   However, all a sudden last weekend as soon as I pushed throttle passed 4k and the engine stumbles, (slow or fast acceleration) hesitates and doesn’t go above 4100 or so, like a misfire. Everything else seems fine. I had a “good” set of coil packs that I removed from car when I first got it when I changed them over to new coils. I swapped out current ones for those, but no change. I also changed the plugs, no change. Seems to rev over 4 when out of gear with no load just fine no “misfire”, but as soon as its in gear with a load of any kind, it “misfires” as soon as rpm drop back below 4 k it runs perfectly, smooth, starts, restarts and drives fine as long as I keep it below 4 k while in gear. All readings look fine, no CEL   Any idea as to what could all a sudden cause an issue when pushing rpms passed 4 k?
    • When you say your cams are 272/262 is that 272in and 262ex?
    • We're arguing semantics. I am saying 45 accel and a 55 deccel ramp are "2 ways". Even a 45 degree ramp and an 89 degree ramp is "2 ways", because it is literally... two ways. The cusco 55/30 ramp is a 2 way. It's two ways. I get it though - in normal nomenclature a "2 way" would be 45/45 or 55/55 or 60/60 i.e the same locking in both directions. And something like 45/65 would be considered "1.5 way". I would then say if we're getting into the nitty gritty then every locking diff is a "2 way" diff and we should not speak in 1.5, or 2 ways but ramp angles instead. Which ofc if one of those ramp angles is 90deg, that side is not doing any locking. :p So Nismo don't obviously sell 3 things. The fact of the matter that they only sell two items really goes to show that there's a 2 way and a "1,5 way" which is really a 1 way. I believe the actual lockup for the 'adjustability' of the GT pro is really just setting preload for when the ramps actually start locking up. It's not changing how much 'wayness' there is. It is (somehow) horribly explained. People just buy whatever diff and go "locks up good bruh" and that's what ends up on socials forever.  
×
×
  • Create New...