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yeah I fired it up a bit yesterday, Got stuck with some class one dickheads in the Mx5s; they were going hella slow around lime rock and because I didn't qualify I started from the back, trying to work my way through and they just would block me on the straight and just be assholes. I managed to get around most of them by driving in their blind spot for a few corners and then sneak past exiting the corner. Still managed to come 2nd :D

Had a go at oval too, figgured I suck at that, I was OK in the legends and manged to lead for a few laps but I'd just cook my tyres and run wide into the walls :(

yeah I fired it up a bit yesterday, Got stuck with some class one dickheads in the Mx5s; they were going hella slow around lime rock and because I didn't qualify I started from the back, trying to work my way through and they just would block me on the straight and just be assholes. I managed to get around most of them by driving in their blind spot for a few corners and then sneak past exiting the corner. Still managed to come 2nd :D

Had a go at oval too, figgured I suck at that, I was OK in the legends and manged to lead for a few laps but I'd just cook my tyres and run wide into the walls :(

The biggest and most enjoyable thing I found was getting out of the Rookie/Class D series, with maybe the exception of the Skip Barber, as that's a fun car to drive as long as the racing is clean. I'm happy they've made the Radical a class C car again with races going off every couple of hours, because the Radical is an awesome car to drive. It's one of the ones I can actually drive on the limit strangely, I can't do the same with most of the open wheelers... I seem better with tin tops like the Mustang etc. *shrug*

And yeah, jerks in the MX5 blocking is annoying.

  • 4 weeks later...

2 of my hoes' , one is the dirty broad minded person you thrash the f**k out of , the other is the good girl you take to meet mum and dad :) , both need a wash atm , but i just brought the 34 down to my work to pull the locks out to send away to get fixed :) , it hadn't seen the road in over a month? , and a blown 3rd gear 20 box (the first and only one i've blown so far) and the new dash i made for the hq and my new tow bus :)

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  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
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