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Black/Red (below yellow) - Antenna boost. Connect this to your antenna/amp control wire. After a bit of experimentation, this *does* in fact boost the amount of channels I could get, so a good idea connecting this up.

Hi Gordon

Dude pardon my ignorance, which wire is the antenna control wire? I have RCA plugs for the amps and a power antenna wire on the head unit?

Any info appreciated - right now the wire is just taped up inside the console :(

Mark

edit: Is there enough info in this thread to request a sticky?

I've just (today) made mounting plates for the fronts. I've also ordered a pair of 6.5's and was hoping to confirm that someone out there in SAU-land has fitted a set already. I used 12mm MDF and the plate fits behind the door np (albeit with some massaging from the jigsaw :)) but wondering about magnet clearance ref the window pane. If it makes a difference, they are Type R 2-way.

I know guys have fit 6's, just hoping the 6.5's also fit. I guess one way or the other I'll find out next week.

Mark

PS Vijay thanks for the sticky

  • 4 weeks later...

hey guys my head unit finally arrived!!! :( i was looking at the manual and looks like a farily easy install, but i was just wondering if mounting brackets would be required to screw the unit to the dash? If so would anyone know where to get them from, because it didnt come with my unit.

thanks

Anyone have a wiring diagram for the stock nissan harness at all or did you all just trial and error for the install. And the other thing is an amp bypas hard to do or would it be worthe just ripping that sucker straight outer of there instead???

The power is on a seperate plug with three wires, using a currenty tester you will work out which is acessory and which is power, the third, and left over wire is not earth, and if used so, head unit will work but fuse for rear tail lights and dash lights will blow (yes i found this out the hard way).

Moral:

Best to run a seperate earth wire.  

To get it out is relatively easy, just pull the dash apard, mainly the surround of the stereo area and the two stero units are conected to each other on the same brackt and come out as a double din item. Very straight forward and plain easy to work out once you start pulling it all apart. MUCH!! easier than a R33.........but they get an easyier amplifier install.

I have blown this fuse as well for the tail lights and the dash lights but cant find the problem cos it keeps blowing as it is grounded. What did you do?

  • 2 weeks later...

Guys,

I have recently come across this thread saying to bypass the factory amp. I have had a problem recently where i was only getting sound from one of the rear speakers although if i turn the rear wiper on they both go for a while then one stops.

I decided to bypass the amp to see if that would fix it today. What I did was connect the four speaker wires (input & output) and turned the radio on, there was nothing heard. so i removed the four jumper wires and pushed the plug back on the amp and there is still no sound. Also the radio doesn't light up any more or do anything, the only thing it appears to do is eject cds.

Anyone able to give me any pointers? are there more wires on the plug i need to jump other than the eight speaker ones?

Thanks

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi Sav man,

just curious how you went with your problem, I recently installed a Apline CDA-9853 and have the same problem with radio reception. I thought the antenna cable fitted. Did you need one of these adapters and was did it fix the problem?

thanks

Do you get shitty reception if you only use 1 plug from the antenna.  Cause my car came fram japan with a "fm expander" and only one of the pins goes into it.  And with my new head unit (Alpine CDA-9826) i get crap reception.

you should not require a frequency expander, if you are using a locally sold head-unit.

Just make sure you wire up the antenna power (in the car) to 12v or the antenna/amp control of your face unit.. or you will get only very poor reception. I clearly stated this in the wiring list..

Black/Red (below yellow) - Antenna boost. Connect this to your (head unit) antenna/amp control wire. After a bit of experimentation, this *does* in fact boost the amount of channels I could get, so a good idea connecting this up.

you should not require a frequency expander, if you are using a locally sold head-unit.  

Just make sure you wire up the antenna power (in the car) to 12v or the antenna/amp control of your face unit.. or you will get only very poor reception. I clearly stated this in the wiring list..

Black/Red (below yellow) - Antenna boost. Connect this to your (head unit) antenna/amp control wire. After a bit of experimentation, this *does* in fact boost the amount of channels I could get, so a good idea connecting this up.

I thought that antenna power was for the antenna's that automaticly rise.

All it does is push out 12v when the unit is turned on (or switched to radio).. this raises your aerial for instance :P Apply 12v, aerial goes up, apply 12v again, aerial goes down. Can also be used to turn on your amp in similar fashion.

But you can connect 12v to it all the time, I don't think it does any damage (mine is connected to the face unit control wire though)

  • 10 months later...
Guys,

I have recently come across this thread saying to bypass the factory amp. I have had a problem recently where i was only getting sound from one of the rear speakers although if i turn the rear wiper on they both go for a while then one stops.

I decided to bypass the amp to see if that would fix it today. What I did was connect the four speaker wires (input & output) and turned the radio on, there was nothing heard. so i removed the four jumper wires and pushed the plug back on the amp and there is still no sound. Also the radio doesn't light up any more or do anything, the only thing it appears to do is eject cds.

Anyone able to give me any pointers? are there more wires on the plug i need to jump other than the eight speaker ones?

Thanks

You most likely blow one of the ACC fuses under the drivers side dash, just replace it.

And if you dont have a diagram on your fuse lid here is a helpfull pic of mine:

post-26393-1148095730.jpg

:PBJ:

OK guys, I see everyone else isn't having dramas fitting their head units! I'm more than capable of all the wiring but the dilema i'm having is when my car was imported, it had only the A/C control period! No brackets, no nothing so what I want to now is- - - How has everyone mounted their headunit? Is there a generic part that can be made to fit? Is everyone custom fabricating their mounts, etc?

  • 4 weeks later...

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