Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

MP3CAR.com

Dowload the Nissan consult software and purchase a consult cable, connect both to laptop and you have live feeds...

I have a mate who did exactly that with a flush screen touch panel in his R33

Thanks but my main interest is for things like boost/manifold pressure etc. which I didn't think I can get from the factory ECU? Anybody know if boost is available through consult? If so then I might just wait until NewKleer has finished Ecutalk v2...

Edited by DaveB
  • 3 years later...

thread mine...

(sorry!!)

been looking at this idea for my R32 GTS4.

I have a mate that can make dash overlays and my thought was to drop the tach out of my cluster and drop a 4" LCD panel in place of it

000.900_LCD4CHL_PI.jpg

http://www.lcdtft.com/Detail.asp?Product_ID=000.900_LCD4CHL

from my reading the HKS CAMP will do the basic things off the consult port and other items with the additional sensors attached.

given that the camp is an older unit has anyone got a CAMP2?

I can find plenty of info on the CAMP but little on the CAMP2.

from the little amount of info I can find the only difference I can see it that the new one runs OBD2 as well.

anyone got the CAMP2?

  • 1 month later...

started shortly after I mentioned it. found someone that had been playing with a CAMP2 and quizzed them on it. I have a mate of mine that makes instrumentation overlays and that is already underway. LCD has been ordered already. the HKS piece is the last to be purchased. I'm leaving that for a while until I'm at a point where I need it.

  • 6 years later...
On 26/06/2011 at 8:04 PM, Chris Rogers said:

started shortly after I mentioned it. found someone that had been playing with a CAMP2 and quizzed them on it. I have a mate of mine that makes instrumentation overlays and that is already underway. LCD has been ordered already. the HKS piece is the last to be purchased. I'm leaving that for a while until I'm at a point where I need it.

How things have changed now, hey Chris? haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...