Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone used a Willwood pedal box in their car ?

I have an R32 GTS4 with a heavy duty clutch (9 puck organic with 2500lb pressure plate).

In the time that I have had the car (roughly just over 2 years) I have been through 3 or 4 pedal boxes. Now this latest one is about to snap as well.

I'm getting that sick of it that I'm thinking of changing to a new setup ... but just don't know what.

Does anyone have any ideas?

These Willwood ones look like they might do the job.

Any help much appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/67284-willwood-pedal-box/
Share on other sites

you must have one insane pressure plate!! how's your left leg?

you really should have that many failures. perhaps a lighter pressure plate is in order? providing the clutch plate has a good friction surface a 10000000pound pressure plate shouldn't really be needed.

Cam - yeah mate mine's a Ross Autoclutch jobbie as well. They also apparently fixed the selector fork in my gearbox at the same time.

Richard - the pressure plate is 2500lb .... the clutch pedal is very stiff and im sure the box didnt grate as much before as it does now (ie. 3rd and 4th gears). I'm pulling the whole gearbox and associated parts out soon so I guess I'll check it out then. But still, not happy :(

Maybe I'll just buy another standard pedal box, and someone suggested a bigger master cylinder to take some of the pressure off the pedal?

Is it possible to reinforce it?

I have a fairly heavy clutch and it mangled the pedal bracket which was made of pretty much tin with a spot weld here and there.

Another one was sourced and it was heavily reinforced with some extra steel plate and a decent weld job and its been fine so far in the 2,000ks its travelled.

wilwood pedal boxes are the shizzle. I ahve ordered one for my gtr the tripple master cyclinder with reverse top mount. I want be using a booster on either the brake or clutch and for the price they are a bargain. I will probably be welding in custom mounts for it i dont know yet but i know there will have to be a fair amount of modification to get it all working!!!

Yeah I had them reinforced and they then broke in different spots. The material that those standard pedal boxes are made out of just shit !

Anyway, the last one I had was reinforced so much that it started to tear the bulkhead so I had to rip the whole dash out and get everything strengthened. It must be the worst designed thing I've ever seen!

wilwood pedal boxes are the shizzle. I ahve ordered one for my gtr the tripple master cyclinder with reverse top mount. I want be using a booster on either the brake or clutch and for the price they are a bargain. I will probably be welding in custom mounts for it i dont know yet but i know there will have to be a fair amount of modification to get it all working!!!

That sounds very interesting !

Where are you buying that from ?

So the master cylinders are in the engine bay still or underneath the dash ?

Sorry for the questions but I'm excited to hear that someone else is doing what I hoped could be done ! :wassup:

Ok I took my car to a good workshop last night

They told me that when the clutch was fitted, they used the wrong diaphragm which is putting too much pressure on my pedal, and hence ruining my pedal boxes :cheers:

Lucky I'm pulling the box out soon anyway to replace the gearbox !

I'll put a twin plate in there instead I think.

Richard - the pressure plate is 2500lb .... the clutch pedal is very stiff and im sure the box didnt grate as much before as it does now (ie. 3rd and 4th gears). I'm pulling the whole gearbox and associated parts out soon so I guess I'll check it out then. But still, not happy :cheers:

yeah, a 2500pound pressure plate seems way to high. having just read your post below good so see that the workshop has diagnosed it correctly. with a properly matched clutch plate/pressure plate combo you will have none of these pedal snapping problems.

Jim,

Interesting news about the diaphram. I take it that it's in the master cylinder? That must be the only difference as mine has done 20,000km and is still going strong. Well I hope it is as I don't want to be re-inforcing any parts of the std arrangement! :cheers:

Cam

Cam : I think the diaphragm has something to do with ... umm ... actually, I'm not sure :)

I think it's on the clutch itself though ?

TJ : Yeah I reckon ... farked !

But also in saying that, I know of two other guys with 32s in Perth that have broken pedal boxes .

I've got a GTR box for it now anyway so I'll replace the whole shabang and see how she goes!

  • 2 years later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...