Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how much boost do you want to run on the stock turbos anyway? I run about .9 bar and the stock IC works very well. Inlet temp is pretty well under control.

What sort of inlet temps? I am running 250kW at the rears, power fc and cams on stock turbo and get inlet temps of 40 - 50 degrees :confused:

admittedly this has been more in commuting, have to see how it goes on freeway

What is average?

depends. if I sit in traffic It can quickly get up to 50degrees. then once on the move it's down to around 38. I find once it's gotten up to 50, the ic can't drop it down below around 38. but this may be in part due to the plenum and all the post IC piping being nice and hot. On the track it didn't go above around 35 (from memory). on a 26 degree day, inlet temp (that's in the plenum) of around 10 degrees above ambient is pretty good. I'm sure the plenum and post IC piping is a lot higher than 10 degrees above amb.

one other 'test' I've done is after a thrash put your hand on the inlet tank (VERY hot) but the outlet tank is very cool to touch. it actually feels cooler than ambient.

I guess the only real way to test the IC'c effectiveness is to get three temp sensors. one ambient, one ic inlet, one ic outlet. coupled with the plenum sensor you could tell:

1. how much your turbos heat the air over ambient

2. how effectice the stock cooler is at cooling that air

3. how much heat is transferred into the intake charge between the IC outlet and the throttles.

Went for a strap last night... according to the aircon unit, the ambient temperature was 16.5 degrees. While cruising at 100km/h for ~10 mins the temp on power fc wouldnt drop below 33 degrees. After a quick squirt through 2nd and 3rd gears, the ambient temp wouldnt drop below 38 degrees, and quickly went up to 40 and sat around that the whole way home.

I take it that is 20 - 25 degrees above "ambient" its time for a new cooler? (was running 17psi and made 330rwkw in the same trim as I was driving it last night) :rofl:

Danny if your got std turbos you do not need an intercooler upgrade and as for running more boost through the std turbos JUST DONT it's not worth the risk. As if they let go they can damage the engine, i thought it hog wash till a friend in perth had it happen recently ($10,000 repair bill /motor and turbos) so i would take the money your put a side for intercooler upgrade and buy new turbos, it will be the best thing your ever done.

As i'm running 530rwhp on std cooler quiet happily and the best i think you might get out of std turbo would be in the high 300s

Ps oil in the intercooler means the turbos are passing and are not far away from going bye bye , sent four sets die now(mine included)

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...