Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dude, there's a sticky in this VERY FORUM telling you how to attach images to your posts ;):)

Here's the link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=47677

Dayuum... has anyone tried this on an r33 yet? it's right under the inlet manifold! basically need to take the whole inlet off to even see it! this will be a bastage of a job...

Hence my tut and pics to show where it is. It took me forever to work out what it was based on people's description! haha

Dayuum... has anyone tried this on an r33 yet? it's right under the inlet manifold! basically need to take the whole inlet off to even see it! this will be a bastage of a job...

I dont think you need to take the whole inlet manifold off. I was trying to get to mine coz i have a high idle problem. If you take the oil filter off it will give you a bit more room.

I just did an oil and filter change so the air regulator is going to have to wait

yeah it's actually in a different spot again... the biggest thing for me was knowing what the damn thing looked like! but yeah descriptions alone just dont cut it! below that WHAT, exactly? :P

good work mate

Inasnt you're right removing the oil filter will free up a bit more room, still think it'll be a caaaaan't all the same. I'm in the same boat as you, just did the oil change. it's just a right piss off! the other day my damn car stalled because of it... and I hate hearing that pinging when it pulls itself back up off 100rpm! think i'm just gonna have to skin some knuckles...

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...

This was an absolute pain in the ass to do, had to open up the air reg while inside the car coz the harness would just not come out. But I am so happy after checking AFM, throttle body, TPS, cleaning AAC this finally semi-fixed my idle.

It has however mostly fixed my idle, I'd like to know whether inside of it the opening is meant to be over the hole at all. In the picture posted it looks like there is still a slight gap(about 1mm), and that is the same with mine, however I would have thought it should be fully closed. The idle has dropped down now(but now its almost stalling coz it drops well under 500 after reving then flicks back up), but I wanna know whether i will need to buy another air regulator to adjust it all properly.

btw I couldn't find a spring to buy that was small enough anyway.

Cheers,

Adrian

  • 9 months later...

I will be trying this tonight...Does anyone have any pics specific for R33?

I had a look last night to see if I could find it based on this thread, with no luck.

I might take the plenum off to make things easier.

  • 2 years later...

I took mine out and gave it a clean however I noticed that the spring was not holding the bimetallic plate on fully, allowing air to escape on idle (causing idle to stay around 1500-2000 depending on temp)

I got a quote from Nissan, $276.95 for a new valve. I will give this a go and report back. Hopefully the idle will drop back down to normal.

  • 8 months later...

For an R32 RB20 you don't need to remove half the stuff listed. I just pulled off one side of the 2 small vacuum lines and the larger lines with the T-piece. The only tricky bit is working around the loom which runs over the top over the unit. Oh and dropping the bolts down into the manifold :).

For an R32 RB20 you don't need to remove half the stuff listed. I just pulled off one side of the 2 small vacuum lines and the larger lines with the T-piece. The only tricky bit is working around the loom which runs over the top over the unit. Oh and dropping the bolts down into the manifold :).

Hence me saying...

"2) Have a look, and work out if you can get to it as is. I couldn’t; so I chose to remove the following, you can skip ahead if you think you can get to it without removing them."

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...