Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dude, there's a sticky in this VERY FORUM telling you how to attach images to your posts ;):)

Here's the link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=47677

Dayuum... has anyone tried this on an r33 yet? it's right under the inlet manifold! basically need to take the whole inlet off to even see it! this will be a bastage of a job...

Hence my tut and pics to show where it is. It took me forever to work out what it was based on people's description! haha

Dayuum... has anyone tried this on an r33 yet? it's right under the inlet manifold! basically need to take the whole inlet off to even see it! this will be a bastage of a job...

I dont think you need to take the whole inlet manifold off. I was trying to get to mine coz i have a high idle problem. If you take the oil filter off it will give you a bit more room.

I just did an oil and filter change so the air regulator is going to have to wait

yeah it's actually in a different spot again... the biggest thing for me was knowing what the damn thing looked like! but yeah descriptions alone just dont cut it! below that WHAT, exactly? :P

good work mate

Inasnt you're right removing the oil filter will free up a bit more room, still think it'll be a caaaaan't all the same. I'm in the same boat as you, just did the oil change. it's just a right piss off! the other day my damn car stalled because of it... and I hate hearing that pinging when it pulls itself back up off 100rpm! think i'm just gonna have to skin some knuckles...

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...

This was an absolute pain in the ass to do, had to open up the air reg while inside the car coz the harness would just not come out. But I am so happy after checking AFM, throttle body, TPS, cleaning AAC this finally semi-fixed my idle.

It has however mostly fixed my idle, I'd like to know whether inside of it the opening is meant to be over the hole at all. In the picture posted it looks like there is still a slight gap(about 1mm), and that is the same with mine, however I would have thought it should be fully closed. The idle has dropped down now(but now its almost stalling coz it drops well under 500 after reving then flicks back up), but I wanna know whether i will need to buy another air regulator to adjust it all properly.

btw I couldn't find a spring to buy that was small enough anyway.

Cheers,

Adrian

  • 9 months later...

I will be trying this tonight...Does anyone have any pics specific for R33?

I had a look last night to see if I could find it based on this thread, with no luck.

I might take the plenum off to make things easier.

  • 2 years later...

I took mine out and gave it a clean however I noticed that the spring was not holding the bimetallic plate on fully, allowing air to escape on idle (causing idle to stay around 1500-2000 depending on temp)

I got a quote from Nissan, $276.95 for a new valve. I will give this a go and report back. Hopefully the idle will drop back down to normal.

  • 8 months later...

For an R32 RB20 you don't need to remove half the stuff listed. I just pulled off one side of the 2 small vacuum lines and the larger lines with the T-piece. The only tricky bit is working around the loom which runs over the top over the unit. Oh and dropping the bolts down into the manifold :).

For an R32 RB20 you don't need to remove half the stuff listed. I just pulled off one side of the 2 small vacuum lines and the larger lines with the T-piece. The only tricky bit is working around the loom which runs over the top over the unit. Oh and dropping the bolts down into the manifold :).

Hence me saying...

"2) Have a look, and work out if you can get to it as is. I couldn’t; so I chose to remove the following, you can skip ahead if you think you can get to it without removing them."

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...