Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good news, these are available again.

PMs sent to those on the waiting list, and there should be a couple of units left over anyone else who wants them

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 317
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Duncan, just bought my self a R33 GTR and am new the the forum. Any Attessa controllers left and can i get you to fit it? email me: [email protected]

  • 3 months later...

hey mate, pretty keen, had a quick read through the posts but there are too many and im in a hurry. :)

Just wanted to know if this can transfer 100% to the rear wheels?

Cheers. :sorcerer:

  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, sorry I haven't been getting notifications for this thread. :P

As mark said there are 4 ready to go atm, pm sent with details!

DWN80Y the only things you can see when its installed are an LED to show the split level and a button to adjust up or down.

zertek yes it can, but only safely in a r32.

Well...the basic theory is the same, and we originally started with something simple like the ebay ones.

But after testing they just didn't work as well which led to the ones we have now - with a program on a chip. The dial ones are pretty crude adjustments.

Check out this thread, Giant has a very quick track GTR and has tried the simple style ones and uses our one now instead....and he has got around Wakefield Park in 1.04.1..... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=171761

Guest mark32
Thanks for the reply Duncan, gives me some more info to digest and research to do, I think I will get my transfer case checked out while my clutch is fitted to be confident in using one of these

I was originally going to build a torque controller from a circuit that Julian Edgar had posted on the web years ago, which i believe that the ones on ebay are based on. but thought it was too bulky for a start and also required some work with resistors and such to tune the op-amps to give the correct input-output ratio, which is not that much of a problem if your doing a one off but if you intend to sell them this can become troublesome because if you are going to tune it properly it would take some time or you would have to use trimpots which can easily come out of adjustment with vibration and the like.

When microchip released this version of their PIC chip I thought it would be perfect for such a job because all of the analogue to digital conversion (for the input) and pulse width modulation (for the output) could be done on the chip without the need for bulky add on chips to do such functions thereby keeping size to a minimum (70mm * 40mm). The all important input-output ratio of my devices is always linear by virtue of the accuracy of the PIC chip, the same cannot be said of an analogue controller that was owned by a friend that I had tested it was all over the place at the high ends of the scale, the more the voltage swing the more inaccurate (input-output ratio) it became.

My units are small enough to fit under the console and most guys with R32s usually use the in most cases redundant AM/FM radio tune buttons on the left hand side of the dash to select between different modes. This is particulary useful for guys who race them and want to change modes on the fly, just have to tap the button up or down depending whether you need more or less front bias. There are 10 modes from 1 normal factory setting to 10 which is MAX front bias these modes are all indicated by a LED to let you know what mode your in by flashing a number of times corresponding to the mode number, this will only flash when you start the car or change mode. It also has 2 other modes which are 1) 2wd mode just like pulling the fuse in the R32 (and should only really be used in a R32). 2) A mode which allows little bias to the front wheels thereby letting you spin the rears very easily (although eventually the ATTESA intervenes and pulls the fronts in.)

Although my units are more expensive than the ones on E-Bay I believe they are much more precise and are definately much smaller

post-842-1181826305_thumb.jpg

  • 2 months later...

These are the least blingy thing you can do for your GTR. If you are looking for more noise, flash, HP or whatever - look elsewhere. All you get is a very nondescript switch and a little LED.

On the other hand - if you want your GTR to handle like its on rails - buy one of these. Very noticable improvement on the track and I did DECA last weekend with one in. OMG - they should ban the damm thing on a skid pad it is so good (very slick pad so I ran it at 7).

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...