Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well it was time for my r33 to get its gear box and diff oil changed. Looking around on the forum I read redline was a good brand. But when I looked at the price I thought twice. $130 to change my oil!!! #$%#$ But I also read on the container it has 400 000 klm before you have to change it again. mmmm!!

Ok well the fact that I will never have to change the oil again and the container did say racing use :P my arm was twisted..

So into the garage I went, changed the oil, and took here for a drive. I noticed the gear changing were a little smoother but apart from that not much else.

later that night.. I went down the cost and dragged 4 cars. Ok now I noticed the oil come into play. I could flat shift this baby like the gear box was mean't for it. I also notice my schro mesh problems in 2nd was gone!! Never again since has my gear box felt crunchy.

FYI: I used castrol vm 80/90(castol something) previously..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69746-changed-oil-to-redline/
Share on other sites

I have some redline gear oil ready to go in too at the moment. How much did you use? I brought 2 US gallons of it (about 7.4 lts) to do the gear box and diff. I have read numerous posts and there seems to be a conflict of gear box oil quantities. I have seen the range from 2.5 lts to 3.5lts.

yeah red line is awesome.. i had a problem with my clutch on my S15. everytime i drop gears and slowly release my foot off the clutch, it would vibrate ALOT!! I put redline gear box fluid in and some TEFLON gearbox treatment, and after 400kms never happened aggain and gears feel way smoother too!!

Rob

I bought the shock proof 4L 85/90 I think (I let the saleman work it out for me) for the gearbox and the 75/140 1L for the diff. I used all the 1L plus a little of gear box oil. I think the diff took about 1.5L and the gearbox about 2.5L.

I used just over 4l in my gearbox..

LW.

I just double checked, and the R32 GT-R workshop manual says you need 4.1l (for the R32 GT-R gearbox, obviously). Given that the R33 GTS-t gearbox is meant to be quite similar to the R32 GT-R box, I find it suprising that some of you guys have put so little oil in?

LW.

Given that the R33 GTS-t gearbox is meant to be quite similar to the R32 GT-R box, I find it suprising that some of you guys have put so little oil in?  

LW.

Thats what i thought too, but the guy who told me that 2.5L was all that was needed was a tranmission specialist. He said as long as the gears are picking up oil the trans will be fine and that too much oil will overheat it.

I also changed my gearbox oil to Redline after my car wasn't engaging 1st gear very well on down change (FJ20 Box). It needed about 2.2L and after about 500km it worked its magic. Gear changes are now smoother and not at notchy and it engages all gears perfect.

I've also heard this works wonders on Toyota boxes as they are known to be notchy and stiff.

it has worked well on my previous r33, i recently put it in my new one, but as benm says it takes around 500kms to make a big difference but so far its already better(only driven maybe 100km)

gbox took about 2.8L, i just fill it till it reaches the hole..

diff took 1.3L, didnt use redline, used castrol, heavier weight.

it has worked well on my previous r33, i recently put it in my new one, but as benm says it takes around 500kms to make a big difference but so far its already better(only driven maybe 100km)  

gbox took about 2.8L, i just fill it till it reaches the hole..

diff took 1.3L, didnt use redline, used castrol, heavier weight.

where can i get some redline oil for my baby???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was 99% sure the standard one is long enough to get there, you might just have to change the throttle orientation. If not, I remember someone having used an r31 cable instead, but that is probably harder to find than r33 by now...
    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...