Jump to content
SAU Community

Changed oil to redline

rmahnovetsky

By rmahnovetsky,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

rmahnovetsky Proficient

rmahnovetsky

Posted
Posted

Well it was time for my r33 to get its gear box and diff oil changed. Looking around on the forum I read redline was a good brand. But when I looked at the price I thought twice. $130 to change my oil!!! #$%#$ But I also read on the container it has 400 000 klm before you have to change it again. mmmm!!

Ok well the fact that I will never have to change the oil again and the container did say racing use :P my arm was twisted..

So into the garage I went, changed the oil, and took here for a drive. I noticed the gear changing were a little smoother but apart from that not much else.

later that night.. I went down the cost and dragged 4 cars. Ok now I noticed the oil come into play. I could flat shift this baby like the gear box was mean't for it. I also notice my schro mesh problems in 2nd was gone!! Never again since has my gear box felt crunchy.

FYI: I used castrol vm 80/90(castol something) previously..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69746-changed-oil-to-redline/
Share on other sites
Damo Community Regular

Damo

Posted
Posted

I have some redline gear oil ready to go in too at the moment. How much did you use? I brought 2 US gallons of it (about 7.4 lts) to do the gear box and diff. I have read numerous posts and there seems to be a conflict of gear box oil quantities. I have seen the range from 2.5 lts to 3.5lts.

GR33DY Enthusiast

GR33DY

Posted
Posted

yeah red line is awesome.. i had a problem with my clutch on my S15. everytime i drop gears and slowly release my foot off the clutch, it would vibrate ALOT!! I put redline gear box fluid in and some TEFLON gearbox treatment, and after 400kms never happened aggain and gears feel way smoother too!!

Rob

rmahnovetsky Proficient

rmahnovetsky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I bought the shock proof 4L 85/90 I think (I let the saleman work it out for me) for the gearbox and the 75/140 1L for the diff. I used all the 1L plus a little of gear box oil. I think the diff took about 1.5L and the gearbox about 2.5L.

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted
I used just over 4l in my gearbox..

LW.

I just double checked, and the R32 GT-R workshop manual says you need 4.1l (for the R32 GT-R gearbox, obviously). Given that the R33 GTS-t gearbox is meant to be quite similar to the R32 GT-R box, I find it suprising that some of you guys have put so little oil in?

LW.

Sambo33 Grand Master

Sambo33

Posted
Posted
Given that the R33 GTS-t gearbox is meant to be quite similar to the R32 GT-R box, I find it suprising that some of you guys have put so little oil in?  

LW.

Thats what i thought too, but the guy who told me that 2.5L was all that was needed was a tranmission specialist. He said as long as the gears are picking up oil the trans will be fine and that too much oil will overheat it.

boj01 Experienced

boj01

Posted
Posted

I also changed my gearbox oil to Redline after my car wasn't engaging 1st gear very well on down change (FJ20 Box). It needed about 2.2L and after about 500km it worked its magic. Gear changes are now smoother and not at notchy and it engages all gears perfect.

I've also heard this works wonders on Toyota boxes as they are known to be notchy and stiff.

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

it has worked well on my previous r33, i recently put it in my new one, but as benm says it takes around 500kms to make a big difference but so far its already better(only driven maybe 100km)

gbox took about 2.8L, i just fill it till it reaches the hole..

diff took 1.3L, didnt use redline, used castrol, heavier weight.

BOOST ON Collaborator

BOOST ON

Posted
Posted
it has worked well on my previous r33, i recently put it in my new one, but as benm says it takes around 500kms to make a big difference but so far its already better(only driven maybe 100km)  

gbox took about 2.8L, i just fill it till it reaches the hole..

diff took 1.3L, didnt use redline, used castrol, heavier weight.

where can i get some redline oil for my baby???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...