Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well it was time for my r33 to get its gear box and diff oil changed. Looking around on the forum I read redline was a good brand. But when I looked at the price I thought twice. $130 to change my oil!!! #$%#$ But I also read on the container it has 400 000 klm before you have to change it again. mmmm!!

Ok well the fact that I will never have to change the oil again and the container did say racing use :P my arm was twisted..

So into the garage I went, changed the oil, and took here for a drive. I noticed the gear changing were a little smoother but apart from that not much else.

later that night.. I went down the cost and dragged 4 cars. Ok now I noticed the oil come into play. I could flat shift this baby like the gear box was mean't for it. I also notice my schro mesh problems in 2nd was gone!! Never again since has my gear box felt crunchy.

FYI: I used castrol vm 80/90(castol something) previously..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69746-changed-oil-to-redline/
Share on other sites

I have some redline gear oil ready to go in too at the moment. How much did you use? I brought 2 US gallons of it (about 7.4 lts) to do the gear box and diff. I have read numerous posts and there seems to be a conflict of gear box oil quantities. I have seen the range from 2.5 lts to 3.5lts.

yeah red line is awesome.. i had a problem with my clutch on my S15. everytime i drop gears and slowly release my foot off the clutch, it would vibrate ALOT!! I put redline gear box fluid in and some TEFLON gearbox treatment, and after 400kms never happened aggain and gears feel way smoother too!!

Rob

I bought the shock proof 4L 85/90 I think (I let the saleman work it out for me) for the gearbox and the 75/140 1L for the diff. I used all the 1L plus a little of gear box oil. I think the diff took about 1.5L and the gearbox about 2.5L.

I used just over 4l in my gearbox..

LW.

I just double checked, and the R32 GT-R workshop manual says you need 4.1l (for the R32 GT-R gearbox, obviously). Given that the R33 GTS-t gearbox is meant to be quite similar to the R32 GT-R box, I find it suprising that some of you guys have put so little oil in?

LW.

Given that the R33 GTS-t gearbox is meant to be quite similar to the R32 GT-R box, I find it suprising that some of you guys have put so little oil in?  

LW.

Thats what i thought too, but the guy who told me that 2.5L was all that was needed was a tranmission specialist. He said as long as the gears are picking up oil the trans will be fine and that too much oil will overheat it.

I also changed my gearbox oil to Redline after my car wasn't engaging 1st gear very well on down change (FJ20 Box). It needed about 2.2L and after about 500km it worked its magic. Gear changes are now smoother and not at notchy and it engages all gears perfect.

I've also heard this works wonders on Toyota boxes as they are known to be notchy and stiff.

it has worked well on my previous r33, i recently put it in my new one, but as benm says it takes around 500kms to make a big difference but so far its already better(only driven maybe 100km)

gbox took about 2.8L, i just fill it till it reaches the hole..

diff took 1.3L, didnt use redline, used castrol, heavier weight.

it has worked well on my previous r33, i recently put it in my new one, but as benm says it takes around 500kms to make a big difference but so far its already better(only driven maybe 100km)  

gbox took about 2.8L, i just fill it till it reaches the hole..

diff took 1.3L, didnt use redline, used castrol, heavier weight.

where can i get some redline oil for my baby???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...