Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just had a quick browse around the FS section, there's 6-7 of them on the market right now. Curious as to why people getting rid of it and quite a few of them haven't move for months and months..

Is it the market a bit slow at the moment or people only willing to pay $30k (just a random figure) for it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69754-whats-with-the-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks for all your constructive comments.

Umm now R33 being ugly, it's just personal preference really as some of us liked the whale more than the bone job R32 or R34. Actually some people might not have a choice - liked a R32 but it's getting a bit long in the teeth but can't spend $60k at a R34 so R33 seems like a good compromise.

And hell yeah, the whole sports/high performance cars market is seriously depressed.

Upgrade to an R34 yeah if we could all be so lucky and have million dollar pockets.

$30 - $35K for a R33 GTR

$65K if your lucky upwards for a R34 GTR hell if they were like 10K apart like the R32 - R33 than yeah get the more expensive one but lets be realistic most of us can't afford a literal double the price jump.

I only have an R33 GTS-t but i'd have to agree with 'Tommyk'.

The GTS-t vs GTR use the same fuel, same oil, same number of plugs, filters, etc.

Now apart from the initial purchase price and insurance provided nothing breaks on the GTR I can't see the running costs being any different.

The biggest killer on the GTR is the initial purchase price.

The biggest killer on the GTS-t is the high rate of depreciation.

Well thats definately a matter of personal opinion. :P  

To be honest i think 90% of s13's I see and 90% of r33's I see are just flat out ugly because they have been riced badly and on the cheap..

Thats personal opinion again :)

R33s aren't ugly. Some of them are poorly styled, some of them are showing their age because of poor/no exterior modifications. I think series 1 gtst's without any bodykit look dodgy mostly because of the rear spoiler - but as GTS33SOM said, that's personal opinion.

Overall I don't think R33s are ugly at all, and frankly I think it's rude to come to a skyline forum and say "R33s are ugly" when about 1/3 of us here (at least) own R33s. If I thought R32s were ugly I would keep it to myself because I would realise that a) it's subjective and B) why should I care if someone else has what I think is an ugly car?

Plus, in all honesty cars grow on you. I used to think R33s were unattractive, then after a while I looked again and thought "Hmm you know what? I can see where it's coming from now, it's a Japanese muscle car". You also have to look at it in terms of its Nissan stablemates. Put an S14a next to an R33 and notice the similarities. Same goes for S14b and series 2, S15 and R34, S13 and R32. Look at it in context. S13 used to look dog-ugly to me, and sileighty used to make me feel sick...now I actually like the sileighty styling, I'd buy one if I wanted a zippy second car. That's how styling can grow on you..

  • 2 months later...

As a person that has owned all 3, I honestly thing 33's are subject to what I think was some Jap guys statement made years ago.

Something like '32 was a drivers car and 34 has finally got that back'. Now 32 does seem to be more RWDish and 34 probably moreso than the 33 but the 33 is an awesome car and I see absolutely no reason they are less desired other than many people taking a racedrivers respected opinion. Its like a pair of shoes you love but its not "in" so you don't wear em out much but they are just as good as the newer ones.

I'm not sure if I'm confusing you or making sense but its basically peer pressure.

For $30000 I'd rather a 33 than a 32...

I loved my 33.

I think the biggest killer for the R33 isn't so much that they're ugly cause they aren't. Its just the fact they are SO common, people are sick of seeing them same with S13s.

With regards to R33 GTRs, although they are a far superior car, $30+ K now gets you into a lot newer cars with the same kind of performance. Unless you're giving it a hurting or really know what you want most people would find a WRX or SS commy would give them the same kind of buzz without realising why the GTR costs what it does.

Don't get me wrong i'm not comparing them, but as far as the general car buying public goes, the other two cars are only a few years old as opposed to 8+. Its the same thinking that sees people buying WRXs thinking they're rally cars or SS buyers thinking they're buying Skaifes car....

A lot of bad taste with ANY car is the way they are modified. Having owned two Silvias I can tell youm without any contest they are the most HIDEOUSLY modified car ever. It all come down to the purchase price. Shitty neons, GT wings 13 inch wheels. Its the same as Excels and Civics. R33s are lesser afflicted but don't come out unscathed whereas most R32s i've seen seem to be going for the drifter, "I prang my car every 4 minutes so why fix it or wash it"look

I used to think R33s were unattractive, then after a while I looked again and thought "Hmm you know what? I can see where it's coming from now, it's a Japanese muscle car".

hahahahaha. :(

33GTST a japanese muscle car? mate, no offence but you are in dream land. 33GTR maybe, but 33GTST is about as bland as a 'performance' nissan gets. no where near being a 'japanese muscle car'. sorry.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...