Jump to content
SAU Community

hks adjustable actuators

ecl

By ecl,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ecl Mentor

ecl

Posted
Posted

hi

i'm trying to learn about actuators but theres not much threads around here which explains to me what i need to know

basically, looking at a hks adjustable actuator for my GTT and would like to set it up to 10psi.. is this possible? or should i look for a rb20det actuator?

i think it is rated at 1 bar (14.3psi). what does this figure mean?

thanks

Eric

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69763-hks-adjustable-actuators/
Share on other sites
Wazz Community Regular

Wazz

Posted
Posted

if your brave enough.. space your own actuator.. but be careful it can easily go over the the turbo's safe points.. but yer either way prolly pick up a stocko rb20 turbo's actuator for cheap i'd imagine.. just you'd want to make sure that its a rb20 actuator off r32.. apprently cefiro's run lower boost from factory on there rb20's

ed Grand Master

ed

Posted
Posted
hi

i'm trying to learn about actuators but theres not much threads around here which explains to me what i need to know

basically, looking at a hks adjustable actuator for my GTT and would like to set it up to 10psi.. is this possible? or should i look for a rb20det actuator?

i think it is rated at 1 bar (14.3psi).  what does this figure mean?

thanks

Eric

Eric,

Yes you can adjust the actuator to 10psi.

It is a bit of a trial and error, so you might want to employ the use of a dyno just for some power runs so you don't over boost on the streets.

I think the rating means that the actuator won't allow for any creeping up until 1bar. (I stand to be corrected though)

  • 3 years later...
CeJay Grand Master

CeJay

Posted
Posted
I know this is a Old post but.. I have a HKS adjustable actuator on my car. How do i adjust it and to what? PM me if anyone knows..

I've got one as well, from memory the actuator rod, for want of a better word has a section where you can wind it in or out to extend it or retract it. Depending on what you do that will affect your boost.

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have one as well, it is pretty easy to adjust (on a R33 GTST) if you dont have the heat shield on, i run mine and .9 but often see .95, 1.0 and my car with a hi flow running standard injectors, ecu, afm and fuel pump starts to break down.

here is a little paint pic i did that shows you how to adjust them.

post-27276-1216112786_thumb.jpg

the pic is not of a hks actuator but it is adjusted the same as this one.

to go from .6 to .9 i had to screw mine in 5-10mm

Edited by W0rp3D
  • 4 months later...
teng Rising Star

teng

Posted
Posted (edited)

Let say if i have a bad actuator and wanted to get a new one. Could i get the HKS actuator and adjust the length of the hks one so that it's the same length as the stock one. Will that work? Don't flame me yet. Reason i asked is that stock actuators are not easy to come by here as most vendors or scrap yards won't split the actuator from the turbo.

Edited by teng
W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
Let say if i have a bad actuator and wanted to get a new one. Could i get the HKS actuator and adjust the length of the hks one so that it's the same length as the stock one. Will that work? Don't flame me yet. Reason i asked is that stock actuators are not easy to come by here as most vendors or scrap yards won't split the actuator from the turbo.

If you mean adjust to the same length to get the same boost then no, you will have to play around adjusting it to get the boost pressure you want but its not hard to do.

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted

You dont want to be running an acuator at less boost pressure than the spring pressure. I know the HKS item is meant to be 14psi but your will probably see a little bit less sometimes due to IC pressure losses along with a few other things. You really only want to put more preload on the acuator not less. The proper preload for most actuators is a half to a full hole - that is once bolted in you should have to pull against the spring pressure to get the rod over the flapper stub.

Hope this makes sense.

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
Hope this makes sense.

No it does not.

1) What spring are you talking about?

2) On an R33 gtst the vac line to the wastegate actuator comes off the intake pipe just before the throttle body so cooler pressure drop has no effect.

3) If you mean that it wont go under 14psi, when i first put mine on it was at 10psi, i did not try to put it lower as i wanted more boost but i cant see why you could not drop it by a few psi.

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted
No it does not.

1) What spring are you talking about?

2) On an R33 gtst the vac line to the wastegate actuator comes off the intake pipe just before the throttle body so cooler pressure drop has no effect.

3) If you mean that it wont go under 14psi, when i first put mine on it was at 10psi, i did not try to put it lower as i wanted more boost but i cant see why you could not drop it by a few psi.

1) The spring in the actuator - the higher the required pressure usually means the greater spring pressure ie a 14psi actuator usually has a higer spring pressure than a 10psi actuator.

2) If your boost source to your actuator goes to your intake manifold than you are actually creating a manifold leak under vacuum if you have a boost controller. Your boost source should be post IC pre throttle body. You will also have better boost response in this configuration as your not applying negative pressure to the actuator before coming onto boost.

3) I'm guessing you have just lined the acutator rod hole up with the wastegate flapper stub and didn't apply any preload to the flapper - this will cause bad boost response and a few other issues.

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
1) The spring in the actuator - the higher the required pressure usually means the greater spring pressure ie a 14psi actuator usually has a higer spring pressure than a 10psi actuator.

2) If your boost source to your actuator goes to your intake manifold than you are actually creating a manifold leak under vacuum if you have a boost controller. Your boost source should be post IC pre throttle body. You will also have better boost response in this configuration as your not applying negative pressure to the actuator before coming onto boost.

3) I'm guessing you have just lined the acutator rod hole up with the wastegate flapper stub and didn't apply any preload to the flapper - this will cause bad boost response and a few other issues.

1) its adjustable, see the diagram above.

2) how you describe is exactly what i said, its also the way its done from factory.

3) preload? you just close the wastegate which brings the pin closer to the rod, you then put the rod on and see what boost you are running and then adjust accordingly.

You are making this sound far more difficult and technical than it is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...