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hks adjustable actuators

ecl

By ecl,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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ecl Mentor

ecl

Posted
Posted

hi

i'm trying to learn about actuators but theres not much threads around here which explains to me what i need to know

basically, looking at a hks adjustable actuator for my GTT and would like to set it up to 10psi.. is this possible? or should i look for a rb20det actuator?

i think it is rated at 1 bar (14.3psi). what does this figure mean?

thanks

Eric

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/69763-hks-adjustable-actuators/
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Wazz Community Regular

Wazz

Posted
Posted

if your brave enough.. space your own actuator.. but be careful it can easily go over the the turbo's safe points.. but yer either way prolly pick up a stocko rb20 turbo's actuator for cheap i'd imagine.. just you'd want to make sure that its a rb20 actuator off r32.. apprently cefiro's run lower boost from factory on there rb20's

ed Grand Master

ed

Posted
Posted
hi

i'm trying to learn about actuators but theres not much threads around here which explains to me what i need to know

basically, looking at a hks adjustable actuator for my GTT and would like to set it up to 10psi.. is this possible? or should i look for a rb20det actuator?

i think it is rated at 1 bar (14.3psi).  what does this figure mean?

thanks

Eric

Eric,

Yes you can adjust the actuator to 10psi.

It is a bit of a trial and error, so you might want to employ the use of a dyno just for some power runs so you don't over boost on the streets.

I think the rating means that the actuator won't allow for any creeping up until 1bar. (I stand to be corrected though)

  • 3 years later...
CeJay Grand Master

CeJay

Posted
Posted
I know this is a Old post but.. I have a HKS adjustable actuator on my car. How do i adjust it and to what? PM me if anyone knows..

I've got one as well, from memory the actuator rod, for want of a better word has a section where you can wind it in or out to extend it or retract it. Depending on what you do that will affect your boost.

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have one as well, it is pretty easy to adjust (on a R33 GTST) if you dont have the heat shield on, i run mine and .9 but often see .95, 1.0 and my car with a hi flow running standard injectors, ecu, afm and fuel pump starts to break down.

here is a little paint pic i did that shows you how to adjust them.

post-27276-1216112786_thumb.jpg

the pic is not of a hks actuator but it is adjusted the same as this one.

to go from .6 to .9 i had to screw mine in 5-10mm

Edited by W0rp3D
  • 4 months later...
teng Rising Star

teng

Posted
Posted (edited)

Let say if i have a bad actuator and wanted to get a new one. Could i get the HKS actuator and adjust the length of the hks one so that it's the same length as the stock one. Will that work? Don't flame me yet. Reason i asked is that stock actuators are not easy to come by here as most vendors or scrap yards won't split the actuator from the turbo.

Edited by teng
W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
Let say if i have a bad actuator and wanted to get a new one. Could i get the HKS actuator and adjust the length of the hks one so that it's the same length as the stock one. Will that work? Don't flame me yet. Reason i asked is that stock actuators are not easy to come by here as most vendors or scrap yards won't split the actuator from the turbo.

If you mean adjust to the same length to get the same boost then no, you will have to play around adjusting it to get the boost pressure you want but its not hard to do.

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted

You dont want to be running an acuator at less boost pressure than the spring pressure. I know the HKS item is meant to be 14psi but your will probably see a little bit less sometimes due to IC pressure losses along with a few other things. You really only want to put more preload on the acuator not less. The proper preload for most actuators is a half to a full hole - that is once bolted in you should have to pull against the spring pressure to get the rod over the flapper stub.

Hope this makes sense.

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
Hope this makes sense.

No it does not.

1) What spring are you talking about?

2) On an R33 gtst the vac line to the wastegate actuator comes off the intake pipe just before the throttle body so cooler pressure drop has no effect.

3) If you mean that it wont go under 14psi, when i first put mine on it was at 10psi, i did not try to put it lower as i wanted more boost but i cant see why you could not drop it by a few psi.

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted
No it does not.

1) What spring are you talking about?

2) On an R33 gtst the vac line to the wastegate actuator comes off the intake pipe just before the throttle body so cooler pressure drop has no effect.

3) If you mean that it wont go under 14psi, when i first put mine on it was at 10psi, i did not try to put it lower as i wanted more boost but i cant see why you could not drop it by a few psi.

1) The spring in the actuator - the higher the required pressure usually means the greater spring pressure ie a 14psi actuator usually has a higer spring pressure than a 10psi actuator.

2) If your boost source to your actuator goes to your intake manifold than you are actually creating a manifold leak under vacuum if you have a boost controller. Your boost source should be post IC pre throttle body. You will also have better boost response in this configuration as your not applying negative pressure to the actuator before coming onto boost.

3) I'm guessing you have just lined the acutator rod hole up with the wastegate flapper stub and didn't apply any preload to the flapper - this will cause bad boost response and a few other issues.

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
1) The spring in the actuator - the higher the required pressure usually means the greater spring pressure ie a 14psi actuator usually has a higer spring pressure than a 10psi actuator.

2) If your boost source to your actuator goes to your intake manifold than you are actually creating a manifold leak under vacuum if you have a boost controller. Your boost source should be post IC pre throttle body. You will also have better boost response in this configuration as your not applying negative pressure to the actuator before coming onto boost.

3) I'm guessing you have just lined the acutator rod hole up with the wastegate flapper stub and didn't apply any preload to the flapper - this will cause bad boost response and a few other issues.

1) its adjustable, see the diagram above.

2) how you describe is exactly what i said, its also the way its done from factory.

3) preload? you just close the wastegate which brings the pin closer to the rod, you then put the rod on and see what boost you are running and then adjust accordingly.

You are making this sound far more difficult and technical than it is.

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