Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...

It's not that I aren't keen, it's more that everyone dreams of the mighty 25/30 rb and it never ends up happening. To do it right costs more than any other RB25 or 30 build. The end user, ie the one paying the bill needs to weigh upi the costs and decide if it's what they want.

As Steve says, you can get low cost RB rods these days, and there are people stocking pistons specifically for this purpose now, so at least that kind of custom expense is eliminated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/page/2/#findComment-1335675
Share on other sites

masTers, 15k is a safe minimum and more is not unheard of.

IMACUL8, as I mentioned in the other thread, I will talk about it but not now. Too calm at the moment. Will have to wait till I get a bit boozy and can just let it flow.

No more pms please ppl ;) I've been inundated by ppl who want to know about ants l33t engine bulding skillz - well you'll all have to wait! (at least till we confirm what we suspect. don't want to be unfair)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/page/2/#findComment-1345804
Share on other sites

Matt smiths RB30DET is a very basic motor with very small cams etc yet so strong and running 11.6 while having to feather the throttle down the track to try get traction was proof to me how good the 30 combo can be.

This motor gets a real beating and seems to take it with no effort so i now think the RB30DET horror storys are just that.

This motor was built by Wheelspins Steve lee for PER4MANZ running a single ITS turbo.Matts only running modest tune as the gearbox cant cope and the car was build for drifting so who knows its full potential.

Costs of these are much the same as any other RB tho the rods are cheaper than whats avalible for 25/26s and the cam belts easy now and all the normal RB extras like oil pumps etc are the same.In a GTR remember that you have the costs of the sump addaptor but even thats cheap on SAU now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/page/2/#findComment-1349391
Share on other sites

stock internals 8.3:1 compression

picked up a rb30 short motor $150

R32 RB25DE head $750

Vl Head Gasket + rings + timing belt $250

Bearings where good

Already had a wolf3dv4

used top half of plemum of rb20

If u can do it urself its cheap

How much power is it making and for how long have you been using it?

I've given up on this path - couldn't justify the budget required. Have gone the path of the Neo instead. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/70086-rb2530/page/2/#findComment-1355171
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...