Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just to let you know its very suitable for an rb20, not too laggy and happy to support up to 300rwhp (on around 1bar?) with a nice phat torque curve. So very suitable for drift too.. its a pretty awsome turbo! Obviously u need supporting mods though

Ill put my hand up to say how good these turbos are... I will also add apart from a few little mods to exhaust and piping this is a fun upgrade... This is a real father/son mod and the results are sure to put a smile on your face...

Dont forget 24psi is easily done by one of these turbos but your motor wont handle it....

I found out the hard way many skylines ago...

But yeah bang for buck this turbo is great. I will also say 1500 bucks is cheap too...

Free Bump

Some were made with t2 flanges so they could be bolted straight onto sr20/ca18 engines and some t3 flanges so they cud go onto rb20/25 engines! If u find one thats been on a sr20 u can get an adapter plate to make it a t3 flange, but i heard some problems plus its easier if its goes straight on...

Sorry Guys for not replying, I have been very busy with work during the V8 supercars this weekend.

I will take it off Monday and email the pics asap.

If you want pics give me your email address, and i will forward them monday night.

Q1 =Internal gate

Q2 =(Power) approx 300rwph (1 Bar)

Q3 =(Drift) I would say so, They are very responsive and wont give up untill redline

Q4 =(Adelaide) Can be posted/shipped, can find out price. I would preffer Perth/WA

Q5 =(Other mods) Maybe the 90 deg bend off the turbo to intercooler piping, I have a genuine HKS 90 deg bend.

Q6 =(Direct Bolt on) Yes, may need to play around with some rubber hoses but thats about it, I will also supply the wastegate actuator. The Dump pipe will bolt up, T3 flange so it will bolt upto the original exhaust manifold

Q7 =(T2/T3 Flange) Most were T2 flange for the SR20 because the SR20 is very common, T3 flange is harder to get, This is a genine HKS T3 flanged GT2530

Micheal, I will email the pics asap.

Colin Thanks for the free Bump.

This is a good opportunity to purchase a great turbo (especialy for RB20) for a good price, I hade to wait 3 months to find one!!!!

This is not just the Garret 2530 but a HKS GT2530!!!

Can call me 0412 475 321 ASHLY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...