Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 310
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm have them all (cept Melbourne GP coz I watched that 1 live) on DVD-R (DVD<->TV Recorder). I get my neighbour to record them because I start work too early. They are only tv quality but certainly worth watching. They don't work on 3 of my DVD Players (probably the way he records them, setting or something he's a n00b) so I just watch them on my PC with the headphones :cheers:

The racing was quite average until the last 25 laps. With Webber knowing that he had to come into the pits 1 more time to get more fuel he should have come in a good 5 or more laps even before Heidfeld did. He would have been a good 10-15sec infront of Heidfeld by the race finish. Instead he sat behind hoping Alonso would make a mistake or run out of fuel. It's F1 you can't wait for mistakes you have to force them.

yep the end of the race was good, although i was surprised to see webber on the podium at monaco of all places! a good effort, lots of risky tailgating by him though dont you think?

webber actually has quite a history at that track. the year before he joined minardi, he qualified 1st in Formula 3 and won both the races. but, not sure whether to keep expecting podiums though. monaco is different to every other track. i think the williams suited that track more so than it will other tracks this season.

Personally I was really disappointed with how Webber drove.....I know Monaco is the worst place in the world to overtake, but seriously....

he was 4 sec per lap faster than the car in front but could not get past.

And his 2 efforts at overtaking at the swimming pool were in stark contrast to Heidfelds brilliant move at the same place.  Its a miracle that Webber did not smack Alonso and put them both out.

He was out of luck with the pitstop tho, he should have come second.

And lets face it, it was Kimi's race, he could have lapped everyone on the course if he wanted to

alll good points but I have to say that after being passed by heidfeld alonso was making life much tougher for webber as he clearly didn't want to loose that final podium position.

Oh and I forgot to mention, another champagne moment from Villannerve, nice work taking out your team mate on a restart going from 6th and 7th to 12th and 13th :P

Another quality JV moment - one can only imagine what Peter Sauber would have been saying at the time. The matter was made even worse considering that the whole freight train behind Fisichella finally found a way past him on the following lap which would have bumped the Saubers up to 5th and 6th. Good one champ! :mad:

BTW, how ballsy was Trulli's move on Fisichella - 10 points for having a go on that one, it's just a shame that it put him out of the race.

Otherwise, I thought the race was pretty good overall considering most Monaco races are generally a 78 lap procession. Hats off to Raikonnen, he was class of the field, but I also think Heidfeld drove a brilliant race. His move on Alonso was the highlight of the race for me and he pulled it off brilliantly within a few laps of getting on Alonso's rear end. In contrast, Webber was all over Alonso for many laps and really couldn't find a way through which was a bit frustrating. His move on Alonso (both times) were good efforts though as Alonso was driving more defensively on that particular corner once Heidfeld got past, so Webber's move would have been more difficult than when Heidfeld passed him. Glad to see he finally got a much deserved podium, hopefully there's many more to come. He's got to work on his starts though as they're shocking - I think the car is partially to blame, I think a lot of it is down to Webber himself as Heidfeld seems to get off the line pretty well.

This weekend's Euro GP should be interesting with BAR back as well. Hope Williams can improve again, although I think McLaren are well ahead of the rest of the field at the moment.

Here's some interesting points on the Webber starts.

My folks were lucky enough to not only be at the Monaco GP last weekend but were there in the BMW Williams Hospitiality Marque. Over the weekend they had Both Mark Webber and Nick Heidfield along to chat with them as well as Sam Michael. During the chat on the Saturday with Mark it was raised that the previous weeks testing had found that the starting issue hadn't been a software issue as initially expected but a clutch issue.

Now after the race on Sunday they came back - along with the trophies - and it was revealed that on the formation lap Mark reported in problems with the clutch and so they did some "electronic adjustments" from the pits - but these adjustments only made the problem worse apparently. So hopefully they can get this clutch issue fixed.

Also - my mum now has a photo of her holding Mark Webbers trophey.

Bitch.

Talk about lucky - geez that would have been an experience for your parents. Lucky bastards :P

Interesting point about the starts - Webber actually mentioned that his clutch was the problem in the post race interview as well, although admittedly I was a little sceptical just due to the fact that Heidfeld didn't have the same problem off the start. Hopefully it's only a one off occurance on his car as his reputation for being a slow arse off the line is getting worse with every GP.

i was also a little reserved about his clutch statement. his whole career, webber has not been the best starter. in fact , almost one of the worst. he seems to take his time getting up to speed, where others just get on with it. eg. last year, malaysian GP, he qualified the jag 2nd, spiltting the ferrari's, and pooed it on the start. wasn't the first or last time which he do it either.

i do hope that it was just a clutch issue, as i'd love to see him win or consistanly do really well. but losing 3 places into the first corner wont get him anywhere.

Well Hedilfield on poll!

Kimi 2nd with Weber 3rd...we will see what the Williams can deliver. Like i saod in an earlier post , i was rxpecting Heidfield top be quicker then Weber...so far Weber has done th emore impressive job this season, i wonder if Heidfield is about ot get on a roll -> confidence boost etc etc .????

Great effort by the Williams drivers. Lets just hope Webber will overtake Heidfeld and finish 1st. Webber easily one of the best, if not the best at qualifying! Hopefully Williams have finally got their act together to allow Webber to show his true potential.

Go webs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
×
×
  • Create New...