Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wanlis are ok in the dry, but in the wet r shocking....

overall they are crap like nankgas

all the major brands tyres companies make good quality tyres and they all have their cheaper crap.

as stated above, you pay for wat you get.

...my 2 cents... :rolleyes:

"You get what you pay for" - That is the general impression that everyone has, but it only applies to a certain extent... I know of tyres that I have paid big money for (not using brand names as it will just look like Im bagging another product) that have not provided anywhere near the kind of performance that I wanted, then gone on to other tyes (such as Federal's) that have proven to provide more dry traction, wet control, mileage and comfort than the bigger brands at a much more reasonable price.

I understand that there are some very inexpensive brands flooding the market these days and it pays to do some research and ask around about what people use and like - that is why this thread is a great idea.

In a certain way you DO get what you pay for, but at the other end of the scale you can spend WAY to much on tyres that will only do what some mid market "cheaper" tyres will also do.

Its a matter of opinion. ;)

I agree Mick. You do get what you pay for to some extent (don't expect $200 tyres to out perform $500 tyres) but the less know brands need to make better tyres at cheaper prices than the big brands.

the best street tyres I've used were dunlop's top of the line Sp9000 sport (about 500 a corner) but the falken fk452 were close behind at half the price. Look to the performance tyres within a second tier brand for the best price/performance....falken/federal/toyo are all good choices.

But for god sake don't buy a performance car like a skyline and then put real cheap tyres on it. they will ruin the whole experience in a flash.

has anyone used Federal 595 RS the semi slicks?

im not much of a tyre guy but would these performa tad better than a normal say Federal 595

maybe not in the wet, but at least in the dry?

anyone had experiences with them

and i can get a set of 4) 225 45 r17 for about $900

any good?

I use the 595RS every now and then for the street but mainly for the track, there are also a LOT of members using the RS for hillclimb and track events in the ACT forum, you should ask around in there.

Basically the 595 is a street tyre and not really meant for track use, however it will give you a bit of fun for a while, just dont expect to put down your best times.

595's are excellent for drift though, we have had multiple drifters tell us that they are one of the best tyres to drift on.

595RS is 2 steps up from the 595 in regards to track use, the RS has a much softer tread compound and has a much stiffer tread face due to a "low void ratio", this makes for a better footprint on the road while under hard braking, cornering, acceleration.

The RS is much much better for dry traction than the 595 but is a bit of a compromise in the wet (as any semi-slick is), if youre planning on using the RS as a street tyre you probably wont get the most out of them though (even though they have heaps of grip) as they work the best when they're hot (about 60 - 70 degrees).

Have a look at - www.federaltyres.com.au, www.federaltire.com.tw or www.federaltire.com for more info.

I hope that helps :/

cheers thanks heaps mick :(

Anyway ill get to catch up with you soon anyway cause ill be coming back up to Canberra soon

so ill tag along to a friday night cruise with youse and have a chat ;)

There is a thread somewhere in the vic section for the Donellan's prices for Re55s - they are the cheapest I've seen even if you add delivery to Sydney for me

Cheers Duncan. Did a search and found it. How about Toyo Semi slicks?

hmmmm.....i bought my gtr with bridgestone so3 285/30/18 on it, car tracks badly, quite dangerous to drive......hold your breath, these tyres cost NZ$1060 each........so selling them and going for some toyo t1r sound like the go....ha

How is this for a score.

I recently bought a set of 19" inch Rays SF Challenge off a vendor on another forum from Yahoo JP. The wheels were auctioned with a set of B'Stones S-03's.

When they got here I get a call saying they came with no tyres. The guy says he'll see what he has when I go and pick them up or I can have some $$'s off the price.

I get there and you should have seen the smile on my face when he hands over a set Michellin pilot sport, PS2's wit 95% tread. These are OEM on Zonda's and in 275/35/19 push $900 a corner (so I've been told). Full credit to the vendor, as he didn't have to do this but wanted too.

These are the best tyres by far that i have ever driven on.

Dry Grip 10 (V35 struggles to break traction on a warm day)

Wet Grip 8-9

Ride - very silent and very smooth

Still waiting for feedback on the Hankook H424's.

The Hankook catalogue descibes the 424 was designed for V8's with a high silica content for superior grip.

Anyone fitted these ?

A comparison to the K104's would be good.

Cheers.

Edited by conan7772

I have'nt tried many, but mainly because I'm poor and can't afford $500 a corner.

I had Bridgestone Potenza G3 on my old wheels (came with the rims). Tried it on track, wasn't too bad, but I found it shocking in the wet.

Now I have a set of second hand Dunlop Sp3000 (got for next to nothing) or what ever that came out of the police cars. I was quite surprised that how well it performed at OP, considering it only had 50% thread left AND I had it on the front wheels AND I was pushing it soo hard, not once did it understeer. VERY plesantly surprised.

I have Toyo Teo I think, at the rear. Brand new, and the cheapest out of the Toyo range. Can't say much, as it is the rear wheel, all of them have broken traction at some point or another but I found it to be ok.

I had Bridgestone Potenza G3 on my old wheels (came with the rims). Tried it on track, wasn't too bad, but I found it shocking in the wet.

Interesting. I had GIII's on the front of my R31 and thought the grip was quite good. However, I had Falken 326's on the rear and a locked diff so I guess it's all relative :laughing-smiley-014:

had bridgestone potenza g3's 255 40 r17 and when i went to replace 2 the price blew me away so i asked the guy who ive dealt with for years what else will do the job.. i want a good quality tire but im not paying that!. he directed me to maxxis victra ma z1 in the same size.... they are better in the wet and just as good in the dry and alot cheaper. tread design is quiet and realy expells water. extremely soft compound but still seem to be wearing nicely.. hardly done any kms on them as yet cos no liscence :) but when the mates drive it down to victor harbour they are faultess tires!

best normal size car tire ive ever had on a 15 inch rim were parelli p6000 oh man did they grip only 215's and grip better than my cheap 235's r18's on the wagon.

just my experiences hope ive been of some benafit to someone

cheers

For a daily driver these are pretty good for the buck.

Kumho Ecsta Supra 712, 275/40/17 =$109USD Ea. (just to give an idea about pricing)

Falken FK451... good dry grip and good wet grip but tread life is poor IMO. And once the tread starts wearing the wet grip is terrible! It's like ice skating with your car if you go 80+kmh.

I'm looking to get either the Good Year Eagle F1 GS D3 or Toyo's T1to fit my 19's... unless I find something better in that price range (around $250 per corner).. any suggestions? :banana:

Edited by chak8080

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...