Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Nothing... I can't drive the bloody thing.

What I did at the same time as hitting a rock with the sump (well... just after it anyway) was driving it on a dirt road (done many times before but previously always on semislicks) on normal tyres, hooked it around a tight left hander with some handbrake at the same speed I'd done before but it slid a tiny bit too far out and smacked the right rear wheel into the bank.

This was just after I'd heard something smack under the car on an uneven bit of road, but there was no knocking from the engine, pulled over just down the road, saw there was rocks and shit embedded between the wheel and tyre but didnt notice the wheel was in until I'd gotten it home. Noticed the knocking from the FJ when I pulled over to check the wheel, switched it off, checked under the car for oil leaks, checked the oil, put more in for good measure. No mobile reception, no houses, after midnight on a weekday... SH1T!!!!!! Decided if i could drive it at very low revs a max of a km I could get it to a position that I could probably roll it home, or at least push it as there would be no more uphill bits, so I did that. Knocking got a tiny bit louder for the short time it was running (figured if it was stuffed it would need a rebuild or replacement anyway...)

Got home, jacked it up to take the weight off the tyre as I felt it could go flat from an imperfect seal, had felt flattish rolling home, back was swinging a bit but didnt look like it had gone down much. I didnt want to bend the rim of the Watanabe so I stuck an Enkei on the next day, noticed the wheel was sitting in a bit on an angle but thought some might have been from jacking the car up, rolled it up and down the driveway a bit to try and get it to settle but it didnt do terribly much.

Then I rolled it into the shed and forgot about the car until I went to get something from the shed the other day.

So I've bent something..... just dont know what it is yet

Only time I've ever hit anything btw... and I wasnt going quick at all, just like using the momentum of the car to bring the back out a bit on that corner, the dirt road is a bit of a shortcut between two good roads in the hills

I folded a wheel under my car putting it up a curb. I just payed a visit to jaustech they had a couple of arms laying round $150 which was a bit sore on the old pocket though.

However since then I have had a bit of a look at the wreckers and so on and from what I can see the mr30 sedan disk rear end is wrong on the caliper to rotor offset, however hatch back rear calipers fit on the rear DR30 arm and disc assembly which leads me to believe the hatch rear arms will fit up no worries, how ever I have never actually tried. If that makes any sense to you.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hmmm, took the DR out of the garage and swapped the wheels off it so its sitting on the 16's and had a look under the back. I couldnt really see what was bent, it might be the arm where the axle goes through, it looks a little bit like the arm is bent in where it meedts the hub. Though it could also be where the arm mounts off the chassis... I guess I'll need to go and get all the MR30 hatch arms and then compare everything

  • 3 months later...

Engine is running now, so I just need to get the back fixed.

Took it to a suspension / alignment dude yeasterday and he said that the arm probably needs to be replaced.

From what Bensdr30 said, the MR discs are smaller than the DR ones... but if the DR disc will bolt ono a MR hatch rear then that should be fine? I'll try Jaustech first for some DR arms I think

Engine is running now, so I just need to get the back fixed.

Took it to a suspension / alignment dude yeasterday and he said that the arm probably needs to be replaced.

From what Bensdr30 said, the MR discs are smaller than the DR ones... but if the DR disc will bolt ono a MR hatch rear then that should be fine?  I'll try Jaustech first for some DR arms I think

Adam,

The basic arm is IDENTICAL, it mounts to the same place, they are both interchangeable, BUT as Ben says, the rear brakes on the MR are different, they are only 254 instead of 290, the caliper mounts may be different as well.

The DR rear arms are unique as the HR's are same as MR & I just chucked a pair out yesterday. The original arms off my PNV, gone to the recyclers.

I have a pair of stock HR calipers here as they are very similar to DR. I will check tomorrow if the calipers can be mounted to the DR rear end etc and advise further.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...