Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

According to their website, if you're applying METALCOAT to bare metal surfaces (ie. you wire brushed your calipers first), your meant to use " CP-199 Adhesion Promoter".  If the surface is pre-painted, you use the METALCOAT Groundcoat. See here: http://www.duplicolor.com/solutions/faq.html#anchor17

Lucien.

well i didnt, and mine have stuck for 3 weeks, and survive the weekly high preasure hose blast at close range from my local car was (sparkles in midland) hahaha but you cant just buy the blue paint and spray it, ya need the primer also it is the primer that alowes the anodized effect the blue just adds the color, the pain i think was around 35 bucks or somethin from auto1

  • Replies 182
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I emailed Duplicolor asking about the durability of Metalcast for brake applications, and to check if applying a clearcoat for further protection was necessary/recommended. Here's their answer:

Lucien,

Thank you for taking the time to contact us.  There is no problem with using the Metalcast on brake calipers.  The Metalcast is resistant up to 500 degrees F.  We do not recommend applying a clear coat over Metalcast.  Applying a clear coating will alter the overall appearance of the Metalcast paint.  Generally a clear coat will dull and mute the color and metallic cast of the paint film.  The Metalcast coating does not require a clear coat - Metalcast is a durable, high gloss finish on its own. 

Good luck with your project.

Regards,

Ray

L.

I finally got my calipers off, and after going to 5 different shops finally found someone who sold the MetalCast paint:D Will give it a go tommorow:D

nice mate nice, be sure to let me know of how they turn out and snap a few pics to hey, see if i loose my brake caliper painting title belt ahhaah

  • 4 weeks later...
Does anyone know where i can get this MetalCast and ground Coat?..I've been  asking a few Auto1 stores in Sydney and they never heard of it.

cheers,

Maybe try the manufacturer for recommendations?

http://www.honeywell.com.au/contacts/consu...er/default.html

Lucien.

Shmiddy, After suffering a few minor hassles, I finally got my calipers sorted, and I'm very happy with them. Will be doing my wheel nuts next:D

got any pics mate, what color did you go with and how did you find the paint, good find wasnt it, ahahha, mine are still like the day i painted them, another little thing i did was since on my grill i have no badge i painted the bonnet latch with the paint to, looks pritty good, doin my engine cover to, but waitin till i get new intercooler pipes so i dont have to rip em of again, but post up some pics if ya can

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It could be in the tune but in both cases it couldn't be completely solved or eliminated by some of the best tuners in victoria so I'm DOUBTFUL that it's in the tune or ECU but stranger things have happened of course. I've pondered that theory too but is there any theories that thinner and smaller ports overall would cause a turbo to spike? I would've thought it would just restrict it in general if it was small enough to make a difference. I wouldn't expect it to make a different at what is essentially sub 300kw at 4000rpm anyway. I think the next step is going to have to be the 6psi spring to rule out the idea that the gate is cracking open far too wide initially. At least that is the cheapest (free) thing to check initially.
    • I'm thinking it is skinny NA Neo port sizing and cams. Somehow.
    • -5’s did it. 8474 did it. Not hot side related. ECU related? 🤨🤪
    • Above you mentioned you only need to sand primer if there's an issue with it but with fillers it says the surface needs to be sanded to X grit beforehand. Does that sorta contradict that point as the primer hasn't been sanded yet? At the same time if I sand the primer, there's a good chance I'll expose the bare metal and I'm just chasing my tail at that point. Or I'll just use a sand sponge instead of sandpaper, it seems to be far finer in terms of abrasiveness as opposed to sandpaper. From what I understand, filler is like primer and needs scratches from the sandpaper to help it adhere to the panel. I realised the way I'm doing things is actually a bit counter productive as there's a chance after I put filler I will need to put epoxy primer again as opposed to putting the filler first and potentially no primer if I don't go to bare metal. Will keep this in my mind for the rest of my repairs.
    • Not without making up a new screamer pipe from scatch I don't think based upon the angles of the current return. Backpressure shouldn't be an issue though as the straight gate isn't affected by backpressure in the same way that a poppet valve is, and on top of that the exhast system is 4" all the way through so there should be minimal pressure if any to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...