Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I live near Epping and I still got mine tuned there!!

I don't mind travelling for quality.. too many pothead/d***head tuners/workshops out there these days, I don't know how they stay in business, what with the *breaking peoples cars* and such things.

Ben, however, all good!! Cars running heaps better & he did a very professional job :( No f***in around & no overcharging..

he he I would never be brave enough to suggest that... he is a very big man, wouldn't be surprised if I walked in there and Ben was carring an RB26 around on his shoulder! :headspin:

He like Vin with a brain!

hahahah, shit... funny comments :rofl:

um... i was under the impression that you need something like a Power FC to get a car tuned?? But i haven't read any mention of a different ECU? so... when i fit the front/dump pipe i got, and hi-flo CAT, plus a few other things... can i go get the car tuned? i didn't think you could do anything with the stock ECU?

:confused:

After all the hype about Racepace i have decided to check them out. Normally i take my car to ICE (and have been happy with their work as well) but I have taken the plunge and booked my car in at Racepace for a HKS 2535 install, i went there yesterday and it is the cleanest workshop i think i have ever seen!!

Very happy how he checked out my turbo for me and ordered parts on the spot to get the ball rolling...

Ill keep you all posted on the result!!

you won't be disapointed silva33. And he's tuned a couple of my mates 2535s on thier RB25 so he's done them before, stock injectors they made around 240rwkw on bens dyno (non-shootout)

SS8_Gohan: You can tune a little bit without an aftermarket ECU - if you have adjustable cam gears, and also the timing etc... but having a powerFC allows him to tune it properly.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...