Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yesterday my engine died, and had to get it towed home.

Has been running rougher and rougher last week. Until yesterday it was just stalling, and would idle really roughly. Soon as you put into D it would stall.

Pulled things apart and run a compression test. Cylinder 3 is way down on compression (80psi vs 130psi of the others - on my gauge, which does read a bit low), and spark plug covered in visible oil. So I suspect the worse :D

Basically engine will start, run for a bit, get gradually rougher and rougher, then die.

Is it definitely the end of the engine, and anything else I can do to check?

damn rb20 crap crap :rant:

*sigh*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/
Share on other sites

The dropped compression on one cylinder is the decider. It should still run (if a bit rough) but it won't be making a miraculous recovery.

I enjoyed pulling my old rb20 apart. It's nice to see what sort of damage you have done to the engine after flogging the crap out of it for 2 years. In my case very little, just rings and bearings really, if i hadn't been planning on an rb25 swap it could have been rebuilt and gone back in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1391060
Share on other sites

Unfortunately, I never have even had the chance to flog the crap out of it :( See the plan was to do that for another 6-12 months then put in the RB25 I have sitting here. Now I have no choice on the timing of it all.

It's possible its something else, but I have thoroughly cleaned AAC valve, swapped AFM, changed O2 sensor the other week (and it was ok on that), checked all hoses.. checked plugs, cleaned plugs.. coils have no visible cracks or signs of damage. Not sure what else it could be ?

I guess I could try and rebuild the rb20 once its out.. I'm going to have to buy another crapbox anyhow while I do the conversion :D maybe then rebuilt rb20 could go into that.. hmm.. some ideas!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1391126
Share on other sites

Hahahaha i broke mine yesterday.It starts fine but knocks abit in the bottom end and after giving it alittle rev it knocks big time.It sounds like a rex when it runs rough so whats with that?

The motor is ment to run on 6 cylinders... When you loose a cylinder the firing order is out.. .. The other 5 cylinder are probaly doing thier job.. and that one cylinder is just pumping raw fuel out...Causing it to give an off note eg... Like a rex..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1393151
Share on other sites

I am not sure now, I have to investigate mine some more.. it won't start now at all.. whereas before it was running for little bits, albeit rough as guts.

Its getting petrol in there (can smell it on the plugs) - think it was actually petrol on the carbon (looking like oil).. but it doesn't seem to be getting spark..

would a dodgy valve cause bad compression?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1393167
Share on other sites

Hi Gordo,

Im very sorry to hear about your problem man :)

I really hope you get everything sorted ok...

In my opinion, you have a rb25 and you want to do the conversion so just drop it in.

If you don't have the relevant funds get a shit box to get you round coz if you were rebuilding the 20 you would need it anyway.

Thats just my opinion on the situation.

Take Care

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1393214
Share on other sites

ok, continuing investigation.. CSI eat your heart out..

It may *possibly* be a wiring problem around the ignitor module.. removed it, put it back in, obviously jiggling wires whilst doing so. Now starting and running the same as it always did each and every time.

Also curious, so ran another compression check on cylinder #3.. its back to 120psi ! vs 130psi of the others, close enough to 10%. I did the first lot of checks twice to confirm and it was 80psi both times.

Now would a stuck valve mentioned by chris32 be the problem here? Giving a low reading when stuck open, and back to normal while working fine??

The world confused mother ****er comes to mind! :confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1393514
Share on other sites

Could be a dodgy or blocked lifter perhaps?

Maybe worth doing a engine oil flush with one of those concentrate type addatives that break down the old oil, and then dump the old oil and put some fresh oil in it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1393549
Share on other sites

Hahahaha i broke mine yesterday.It starts fine but knocks abit in the bottom end and after giving it alittle rev it knocks big time.It sounds like a rex when it runs rough so whats with that?

R31 Power, i put 10k on its a spun big end bearing. that requires a new bottom end, crank and affected rod/s go buy another engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1395033
Share on other sites

boostn32...change yiur avatar, i keep seeing yous and thinking its an old thread as thats my old avatar:) TP for my bunghole?

Bugger to hear about all the RB20 dramas the past week, hope it is just an electrical gremlin...and engine flush is cheap and easy, may not do anything, but then again?

I hope it is something electrical :wizard:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1395141
Share on other sites

I've got a dodgy injector plug that tends to play up every so often.

The wiring loom injetor plug has split, water gets in and causes a bad connection.

Every now and again it gets hard to start and runs on 5cyls until its warm. ;)

Playing with the injector will instantly get it running on 6 again. ;)

Looking at the plug the contacts get corroded as all buggery. Clean it up and its all good again for another 6months. :)

It also tends to play up more often if I park the car on grass overnight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1395183
Share on other sites

lol @ roy's sparky.. that is now what I need - I think I'm going to have to get in an autoelec to check all the electricals, as I am starting to think that is more what it is. I have done what I can - at least they'd be able to tell me what *is* working fine. ECU reads error "all fine" (useless thing!)

yeah.. this is more *when* it gets warm it goes dodo.

I think there is still plenty of life in this engine! After all its only a 100,000km engine (well on the odometer anyhow) - would be strange if it was packing up so early. There is no sign of a stack of oil in the intake or anything like that, no knocking noises, no oil in water, water in oil - the obvious things.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75770-dead-engine/#findComment-1395210
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...