Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys, I am still deciding on what car to buy, i still have time though, so its alright!

First, i was thinking R32 GTR, but then people on this forum changed my mind. Now i am debating between 98/99 R34 GT-T or a 00/02 S15. Both could be bought for around 30k mark. What do you guys think? I like S15, but it only has 147kw and everyone drives them. At the same time, it would be a much younger car compared to '98 GT-T.

Any comments, please!

Cheers, Vlad.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76937-please-dont-kill-me/
Share on other sites

deadushki, what turned you off an R32 GTR? if its maintenance cost etc, then an R33 GTR is gonna be no different.

S15's are perfect for guys new into the jap sportscar world, buy a local Spec S and mod it rather than waste money importing a Spec R. Because its a locally sold car, your insurance company will love you too.

between R34 GTt and S15, is a hard call, I'd pick the R34, but don't count your eggs on the S15 being more prolific, There's a shitload of compliance shops applying for R34 compliance, meaning it'll eventually get as common as the R33.

deadushki, what turned you off an R32 GTR? if its maintenance cost etc, then an R33 GTR is gonna be no different.

S15's are perfect for guys new into the jap sportscar world, buy a local Spec S and mod it rather than waste money importing a Spec R. Because its a locally sold car, your insurance company will love you too.

between R34 GTt and S15, is a hard call, I'd pick the R34, but don't count your eggs on the S15 being more prolific, There's a shitload of compliance shops applying for R34 compliance, meaning it'll eventually get as common as the R33.

You reckon its gonna be as bad as R33? then i should think twice! :confused:

What funkeymonkey said is true.....

but I dont think it will get as common as asshol...I mean R33s... :D

PS

No hate mail thanks...I love all skylines....just prefer and drive a 34....:P

On a more serious note, I was going through the same thing you were about 2 years ago when I bought my car......I wanted to build a replica of the HKS D1 drift silvia and was looking like crazy for a red one (I LOVE the vertex kit on them)....but to no avail...but the main turning point for me was that insurance was some $2k cheaper for the 34 compared to the s15 and thats for a locally sold one too.

As I mentioned before it was a choice between s15 and GTT but other contenders were EVO 4 and 02 sti.

Insurance was something like this

Sti and s15 -> $5.5k

Evo -> $4.5k

GTT -> $3.1K

hence I bought the gtt and havent looked back since.... :P

but as more come onto the road... more will be involved in accidents and theft.. premiums will go up. Unfortunately its the nature of any import, as they become more popular.

S15 and R34 will take a bit of a whack in the pants in the next couple of years, but if you are happy with that, then go for it. It's probably no different to any other car that age.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...