Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by Strich9ine

look at all these people with mods tho.... hicks is pulling 13.7 (BEST)  

and he's got 14psi, POD, full zorst, FMIC.. all that...  

if you can pull a high 13 stock, why spend $2500 on those mods ?

hence my theory of not getting a stocker in the 13s....

Traction a big part of drag racing is the 60ft put some slicks on that sucker and watch the times tumble..

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by summoner

not much differance? go learn what mods do to a car kabab.. i woulda thought u'd have half a clue considering how long u been on forums. Exhausts.. especially on turbo cars help, not just by the better flow but by the inherent boost increase which comes with this better flow etc. So an exhaust is a decent mod for a car. put a stock exhaust on and see how asthmatic your car feels especially top end.

As kabab said, on the R33 GTS-t, you will maybe gain 1-2 rwkw by doing the cat-back section. This is because the restriction is found in the dump pipe, not the cat-back section. After going the dump, front pipe and 3" cat, I noticed a HUGE increase in power, but didn't notice any power increase at all when I bolted the cat-back section on.

Air filter was probably good for another 1-2rwkw...

So at that stage, I managed a 14.3 with a STOCK CAR (plus 4-6rwkw in mods)... Hardly earth shattering mods.

I have got a 13.8 sec pass with a mildy modified R33.

The conditions were as per the signature below. Namely 8psi ,over 100kgs in the boot + boxes of crap on all the seats and little 205's.

Having said all that my car is not stock (ie: it has mods). I don't believe the factory stock car could get past a flat 14 or 13.9 tops. If the stock turbo was taken to 20psi for one run (might take a few turbos before it did a run without blowing up) it might get a mid 13. Quite a pointless excercise.

Nissan slacked off on lots of areas from factory. Thus far the only mods to my car have been to correct the cheap ass inefficient parts. All the mods have added something to the power but not effected the fuel ecconomy exept to improve it.

Next trip down the 1/4 I'm trying for a flat 13 (with new clutch and light flywheel), big ask for the 205's but it will be fun trying.

Originally posted by predator666

Well it isn't "stock" then is it...every little mod makes a difference.

kabab, you've gone off topic.

Last night you said a bone stock R33 GTS25T can pull low 13s, no exhaust, no boost, nothing, except slicks.

Considering Andrew was trapping at 95mph, with a couple of very minor mods, a 93-94mph trap speed has no hope in hell of pulling a low 13 second pass, even on slicks.

You say most of the R33s you see are running low 14s with crappy 60 foot times, don't forget, most of the guys here are running modified cars, not bone stockers. Nobody above has the said car.

I dont think any of the guys here think its possible either. That is all :D

Argh, this is a frustrating thread, so much misstruth's flying around.

Firstly Elf fuel will only give horsepower if the engine is tuned for the fuel. And the fuel will probably stuff up your oxygen sensor and cat and perhaps even rubber fuel lines.

Also a quicker 60 foot time will improve your trap speed, which is kind of obvious. if you get off to a better start then you have more track to gain speed. That being said a "stock" (No exhaust no mods full stop) will be lucky to get into the 13s, however one with full exhaust pod and somehow tuned for the elf fuel, with slicks would go close to a 13.3

Bab out of all people you should know better.

Throw in a tank of ELF on a stock R33 and watch how crap it will perform without touching a thing. Mainly because of the high density of the ELF fuel, it burns much slower, so running standard timing and fuel maps will run rich and crap. The reason they retune for racing fuel is advance the timing to ignite the mixture earlier so it has time to burn and have it burn complete for more power. It will produce more power because there is a greater force on the piston earlier and at high rpm it will ignite the mixture before TDC instead of later (with ignition lag obviously). So whack slicks and ELF in a bog stock R33 and it will go worse than another on street tyres.

Id say most people with these times just need a bit more practice at drag racing...ive been my few times and hell its not easy to launc hright, anybody can drive down the track, but to launch quick and quell wheelspin (like Merli's learning!!!) is very hard and takes a long time to get it right...

but then Merli's 13.1 was still hell impressive so congrats bruddah!

Finally, someone agrees with me that ELF will be useless unless you can do something with it... then by modifying the ECU it will no longer be a stock R33 GTS25T :D

I agree, bring on a demo... im not paying.. not my claim to prove ;)

Well, its not stock either (bleed valve for 9psi, no zorst, no pod, nothing else), but I ran 14.2 the other day. That was running on R tyres, so they are a fair bit stickier than regular, but not full slicks.

Unfortunately we did not get 60' times so I can't tell you if they were good or not. Trap speed was 96mph.

But this does seem to suggest you could get high 13s in a stocker with a great launch. I could only go to about 4000rpm off the line without significant wheelspin, so there is probably time to be made with better tyres.

Originally posted by Shell

if you want to find out the time of a stock R33, my car is available :D  

oh and my tyres are kinda due for replacement...does this count as slicks LOL :lol:

heh, she already offered. ;)

Sounds good Shell, wednesday week?

:burnout: :burnout: :burnout: :burnout:

exstaic ran a 13.8 with exhaust and s-afc running street tyres 10 12 psi I think mid 13's are possible may be a 13.4 babs is on the mark you dont need a bigger cooler unless you are fitting a bigger turbo in reality merli made reasoanble power witha stock cooler.

meggala

I ran a 13.9 at 101 mph at Eastern Creek on 4/12/2002. I have a sedan with 2 3/4 inch exhaust from cat back, pod filter with a cheap UAS partition and running 8psi. I can't run anymore boost due to spiking problems.

That day was really hot (36 celcius) and I had 5 runs. There was a group GTS T's together that day. During daylight none of us could break into the 13's or the 100 mph. There was 5 of us and we were doing from 14.1's - 15.1's at 93-96 mph. Would you believe as the sunset, these times did not really change ???.

On my last run after the sun had gone down I let my rear tyres down to 18psi, choose not to do a burn out as this only heats up the intercooler and ripped a 101 mph 13.9. I don't believe any of the other guys with GTS T's managed a 13 sec or 100+mph pass that day.

Unfortunately we were not getting our 60 ft times that day so I can't really compare 60 ft times to see whether that is where the difference was, although I'm pretty sure that the 13.9 would have been a result of a good 60 ft time.

Guest Skyline King

Guys.........

when TRY09s was 4ORCD (stock at first) it ran a 12.8 @113mph

it had a 3" exhaust ,pod filter,standard auto not manual,1 bar of boost and avgas and tolunene it ran those times with street rubber not slicks 1.8 60 foot.

exhausts make a HUGE difference to a skyline about 30-40bhp

and an air pod about 5-10bhp,most skylines don't like boost above 10psi as the ignition starts to detonate so hence the racing fuel,you can make 260bhp with these mods and tuning but as soon as you go back to std fuel and setup your looking at 140-160bhp.....hope this helps everyone....

thank you

mick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...