Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

mate, it's pretty farken easy to tell a car with no cat.

forget flames out the exhaust anyway, i can tell you how to shoot flames out your arse if you really want to impress people and look cool.

easy to tell if it is without a cat. harder to tell if its gutted. but they do have defect stations (atleast in NSW) where they check things like that. not worth the risk for some stupid flames me thinks?

Thought so, very difficult to tell if it is gutted, because it would require them (EPA) to open up the cat, which they can't exactly do when they have you pulled over.

Thought so, very difficult to tell if it is gutted, because it would require them (EPA) to open up the cat, which they can't exactly do when they have you pulled over.

Listen to me Ali. There is no need to open your gutted cat to tell if it's gutted. Have you heard of a 4 gas analyser? Most decent mechanics would have one, you can be damn sure the mobile EPA stations have them too. RTA has them too. all the need to do is stick the probe in your exhausts outlet switch it on and you are pinned. There is a big difference between cat and no cat/gutted cat.

Yeah, but you could just say it is probably faulty, which you would simply have to get fixed, rather than not having one altogether and getting screwed. By the time they conduct a proper check, the matter will be long gone.

Listen to me Ali. There is no need to open your gutted cat to tell if it's gutted. Have you heard of a 4 gas analyser? Most decent mechanics would have one, you can be damn sure the mobile EPA stations have them too. RTA has them too. all the need to do is stick the probe in your exhausts outlet switch it on and you are pinned. There is a big difference between cat and no cat/gutted cat.

An even easier way to check is just look at the rear bumper around the exhuast. Although it easier to see on a white car because it will make an yellow stain around the exhuast.

Yeah, but you could just say it is probably faulty, which you would simply have to get fixed, rather than not having one altogether and getting screwed. By the time they conduct a proper check, the matter will be long gone.

have fun mate. so just so we are clear what do you have on your car?

cat

no cat

cat casing nothing inside?

Or the cheap ricey way is to install a flamethrower in your exhaust. Cost around 150 buckz.

$150 for a bunch of twits to jam a sparkplug on the end of your exhaust... sweet! where do I get one of those?

hehe, I've already had a go at flamethrowers.com.au or whatever they called themselves for using pics of Jack's R33 GTR that I took, on their website to peddle their shit. Even though Jack's flames were cased by an angry engine and not some ricey flamethrower kit.

i was running straight through for about a year... came from japan like that and didnt realise for a while... didnt have any problems with staining but i have a cat now

use to get flames everynow and then becuase my tune was bit rich no popping though

So what the fu(k does rice stand for????

its useless shit tacked onto your car so it looks like you drove it out of the set of fast and the furious, even though your car does not go faster or handle better.

eg:

blue led washer nozzles

neon under car lights

"flamethrower" kits

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...