Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

He will test the RB26's maximum power output :)!

That is why!

When it gets destroyed (IF IT GETS DESTROYED. I DOUBT IT!) he is rebuilding it.

Why am i doing it ? Because bolt ons are easy,and we have idea's!

I cant wait.

bye!!!  :)

yeah you have ideas but no clue :confused:

  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

He will test the RB26's maximum power output :)!

That is why!

When it gets destroyed (IF IT GETS DESTROYED. I DOUBT IT!) he is rebuilding it.

Why am i doing it ? Because bolt ons are easy,and we have idea's!

I cant wait.

bye!!!  :)

Fair enough, but you'd have to ask what's the point? and anyway if the whole point of this is to find out whether or not an internally stock RB26 can handle the power then why ask us? just go and do it then tell us how it went... i still don't understand why he needs you.

Ok so std rods are good, but the 450rwkws 9,000rpm example is that using std rod bolts and without any sort of stress relieving?

Id say what would kill a std RB26 quickly is the combinaiton of healthy power, your chasing 400rwkws, combined with 1.5bar boost pressure and the fact that the std RB26 will need plenty of revs to get a T88 on song.

So revs, 1.5bar and 400rwkws on a std RB26.  LOL RB26s are strong, but around the traps you always seem to hear that when they give up its a bottom end bearing thing, followed by pistons. Its never crank or rods.

Good lucj, just make sure you have the money to fix the thing, if you dont then perhaps spend what money you do have on making the thing live:)

ive already seen two cranks go already

Seen two cranks fail how?  I hear of plenty of damaged cranks but they are damaged by spinning bottom end bearigns. I havent heard of a crank failing?!?!?

they bend or are not true.

not splitting in half or anything, but arn't straight

what do i care if you know my numberplate? im just here to pay collective abuse to your stupid forum and ridiculous claims. OMG IM GONNA MAKE A MILLINO HP ON MY STANDARD RB26 BLOCK< IM A HERO.

skyline owners without exception are the bottom end of the gene pool.

Problems?

Kleenex. Your ****in dad should have used one.

edit: Ps Buster is the exception to my above stated 'skyline' rule, he's a champ. but thats it.

U complete F#@*WIT benrx7.

Look...... seriously, WTF....... dont u have something better to do with ur time than bag out productive, informative and not to mention "moslty" friendly forums like this one?!?!!

Take ur 75 iq brain somewhere else, and tell ur dad he shoulda been the one with the kleenex on ur way out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
×
×
  • Create New...